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The Island of Hawaii 


BY 

HENRY WALSWORTH KINNEY 

W 




Copyright, 1913, 

By Henry Walsworth Kinney. 


Authorized by the Hilo Board of Trade 



©Cl. A3 5 049 5 

A . 



HILO (Photo E. Moses) 










The Island of Hawaii 



AW All is the largest Island of the group, of about 
the same area as Connecticut, namely 4,015 square 
miles. It contains the Crater of Kilauea, the larg¬ 
est active crater in the world, which no visitor to 
the Islands should miss, the highest mountains in 
the Pacific, and numerous scenic attractions of 
great variety, such as the wonderful ditch trails, the fertile 
plantation country through Hilo and Hamakua, the typical 
Hawaiian scenery and life of Puna and Kona, lava flows, water¬ 
falls, caves, heiaus and numerous other spots of interest be¬ 
cause of their beauty, unique character or legendary or historic 
associations. The Island holds enough attractions to make a 
lengthy stay replete with interest. The roads from Hilo, through 
Kau and Kona are always good. The rest contain poor stretches, 
but these are being rendered a thing of the past through the con¬ 
struction, at the time of writing, of $600,000 worth of road. 
Railroads and excellent auto and stage service make travel 
easy, and at the main points there are good hotels, while the 
hospitality of the inhabitants, Hawaiians and others, makes the 
way of the visitor pleasant. 

NOTE:—It has been found advantageous to use, in the follow¬ 
ing, several Hawaiian words, which have been adopted by the 
English-speaking inhabitants. Mauka and makai refer to loca¬ 
tion, the former meaning towards the mountain, the latter towards 
the sea. Pahoehoe means smooth slab-like lava, a-a the lava 
clinker formation. Heiau is the Hawaiian word for a temple, 
puuhonua that for a place of refuge, such as were built in an¬ 
cient days to shelter those defeated in war or guilty of crimes, 
where they were safe from pursuers. Kuulas were set aside for 
gods governing the fishing, and fishermen made offerings there 
to ensure success. Tabu is the word for forbidden, mainly in 
reference to the ancient tabu system involved in religious wor¬ 
ship. Kahuna means a priest or sorcerer. The menehunes 
were elves or fairies, similar to those of European folklore. The 
papa holua were smooth declivities, covered with slippery grass, 
used for coasting with sleighs constructed for the purpose. 

Reference to the map will show roads, trails, lava flows, post- 
offices, villages, landings, etc., etc. 


Elevations. 

Mauna Kea 13,825 feet. Manna Loa 13,675, Hualalai 8,275, 
Kohala Mountains 5,489, Volcano House 3,973, Waimea court¬ 
house 2,669, Waipio mountain pali 3,000, Waipio pali S. 900, Wai- 
























FALLS AT PIIHONUA 



The Island of Hawaii 


5 


pio pali X. 1,394, Waimanu makai 1,600, Waimanu mauka 4,000, 
lliilawe (Waipio) 1,700, Honokaa store 1,100, Laupahoehoe pali 
385, Halai Hill 347, Kapoho Hill 432. 


Distances. 

By sea, from Hilo to Honolulu (direct) 192 miles, via Kawai- 
hae 230; E. point of Hawaii 20, Keauhou (Kau) 50, N. point of 
Hawaii 62, Punaluu 70, S. point 85, Kailua (N. passage) 119, Kea- 
lakekua (N. passage) 129. 

* Around Island. 

Distances from Hilo to Puna boundary 6.5 miles, Olaa, Nine 
Miles 8.7, Glenwood 21.3, Crater Hotel 29.2, Volcano House 
30.3, Prison camp 32.9, lava flow tank 38, Gate 40.6, Old Dolway 
place 43.4, Pahala 53.1, Punaluu gate 58.2, Honuapo 63.9, Naalehu 
67, Waiohinu 70, 1st Gate 75.2, 2nd Gate 75.8, Tank 77.7, Old 
Sheep Camp 81.8, 3rd Gate 83.3, 4th Gate 90.2, Papa school 93.8, 
Blue church 103.4, de Mello (Iveokea) 108.9, Miss Paris (Kona- 
waena) 115.7, Holualoa 125, Honokahau school 129.4, Kailua 
road (north) 130.4, Puuwaawaa 144.4, Iveamoku gate 152.8, Wai- 
mea 167.5, Mud Lane junction 171.9, 1st Gate 173.9, Ahualoa gate 

178.5, Honokaa 183, Paauilo 190.9, Kukaiau 192.9, Ookala 198.5, 
Laupahoehoe 202.8, Papaaloa 205.1, Pohakupuka 210.1, Honohina 

212.6, Hakalau 216.1, Honomu 218.9, Pepeekeo 221.8, Onomea 
settlement 224.2, Papaikou store 226.3, Paukaa 227.8, Honolii 
(Hilo side) 228.8, Hilo 230.8. 

Puna distances: Hilo to Keeau fork 9 miles, Pahoa 20, Pohoiki 
28, Kaimu 32, Kalapana 33, Keauhou 50. From Kalapana to 
Volcano House by trail about 24 miles. 

Kohala distances: From Kawaihae to Waimea 11.8, to Puako 
5 miles. From Mahukona to Hawi Mill 8.8, Kapaau p. o. 9.2, 
Kohala Mill 10.4, Halawa 11.5, Niulii 12.8, Pololu 14.5. 



VOLCANO HOUSE (Photo Perkins) 


















The Crater of Kilauea 


ILAUEA, the greatest show place of the group, 
is the largest active volcano in the world, and is 
withal easy of acces^ it being possible to go in an 
auto within a couple of hundred yards of the very 
rim of the pit, wherein seethe the fiery liquid lava 
cauldrons of Halemaumau (the house of everlast¬ 
ing fire). The crater contains an area of 4.14 square miles. 

1 he pit itself is about 200 yards wide, the lava rising and falling 
constantly at various heights. For several years past the crater 
has constantly been very active, its main lava fountain, “Old 
Faithful” being always at work. The Volcano House records 
teem with descriptions of the wonderful phenomenon, and it has 
been called “nature’s titanic workshop,” Inferno and a thousand 
other names, hut no description has as yet been found ade¬ 
quate. It should be seen. 

From Hilo to the Volcano House, at the edge of the crater, 
is 31 miles. The Volcano road, leaving Hilo, passes through 
cane for a few miles, then it strikes through a piece of forest, 
passing into Puna district 7 miles from Hilo. At 9 miles it passes 
through the great Keeau camp of the Olaa plantation, and runs 
through cane fields and past small individual holdings to Moun¬ 
tain View, another camp village, and then on to Glenwood, whence 
it passes through nine miles of forest which is very beautiful, to 
the Volcano House. The trip is interesting as it gives an idea 
of both the high state of cultivation of the sugar plantations and 
of the virgin forest country. The road passes the Crater Hotel. 
The Olaa region is famous for its splendid growth of flowers. 

The Volcano House : Rates : $5 a day, $24.50 a week. Cot¬ 
tages extra. 

The Crater Hotel: Rates : $3.50 a day, $20 a week, for sep¬ 

arate room. Cheaper rates by month. 



Various Points of Interest. 

Right by the Volcano House are the sulphur banks, banks of 
red earth, brilliantly colored by constantly issuing sulphur steam 
and sulphur forming scintillating crystals. The hotel has taken 
advantage of one of these cracks for a sulphur steam bath. 

Close to the hotel is the observatory, recently erected, for the 
observation of volcanic phenomena. It contains an interesting 
collection of seismographs and other instruments, in charge of 
eminent scientists and is open to public inspection. 











ROAD TO CRATER (Photo E. Moses) 




The Island of Hazvaii 


9 


On the Hilo side of the Volcano House an automobile road, 
passing through forest, runs (7 miles) to the pit. The Crater 
Hotel is connected with this road by a short-cut. Vehicles are 
left in a corral within a few hundred feet of the edge of the 
pit. At the pit, on this side, is a rest house, and a trail leads 
around the entire pit, connecting with the observation station 
on the north side, where there is also a rest house. The pit 
should be seen at both daylight and at night, and it is a good plan 
to arrive there before dusk and wait until after night has fallen. 
Behind the observatory is a cave, easy of access, where visitors 
often leave cards. From this point a horse trail leads (3 miles) 
to the Volcano House through the main crater bed, passing the 
Devil’s .Kitchen, the Picture Frame, Pele’s Bathroom, and other 
interesting volcanic freak formations. 

1 he aiito road to the pit passes Kilauea-iki, on the right going 
down, a great dead crater 800 feet deep. A foot path runs over 
the ridge which separates this crater from Kilauea, joining the 
auto road further down. Further on the auto road passes the 
site of an old prisoners’ camp, and still further on it passes the 
dead crater Keanakakoi, on the left. The Crater Hotel short¬ 
cut strikes the auto road near Kileauea-iki. 

. The great chain of dead craters on the Puna side of Kilauea 
gives the occasion for a splendid excursion. The Cockett trail, 
beginning five miles down the crater auto road, where there is 
a sign post, leads past six of these. The first is within half a 
mile of the start of the trail. The second, Puhimau, is so called 
because of the steam which issues forth constantly. The third is 
densely wooded, and easy of descent, and the fourth, the Devil’s 
Throat, is a very deep, narrow hole with a diameter of only about 
fifty feet. The fifth is very large, with a deep funnel-shaped pit 
at the east corner, and a cone and steam cracks at the west cor¬ 
ner. The sixth is a double affair, half of it being densely wooded. 
The trail leading to these craters is excellent and very pretty. 
With a guide it is possible to cross hence to the junction, where 
one road (west) goes to Keauhou, and another, the Kalapana 
trail, leads past the second, and even more interesting chain of 
craters. The road to Keauhou is passable for autos as far as the 
Ainahou ranch, whence a poor trail leads to Keauhou, formerly a 
steamer landing, but now used only by a Japanese as a fishing 
place. The ranch is a sheep station, inhabited by a lone white 
man. Before reaching the ranch, the road passes a trail, marked 
by a tree with five marks blazed therein, which leads to the 
“Makamanu” cave, a long lava tunnel, with several entrances 
where the top is broken. One of these tunnels is double. The 
Keauhou road begins near the Crater Hotel and leads past the 
small Kaluaiki crater on the right and the two small Twin 
Craters on the left, all of them densely wooded and very pretty. 
The Kalapana trail forks, on the left, from the main road, and is 
good for riding. The first side trail, east, goes to the Puuhulu- 
hulu peak, whence a magnificent view is had of the entire country. 
It is 3443 feet high. The crater, by the same name, is a very 
pretty one. The next trail, on the west side, leads to a round 



FOREST NEAR VOLCANO (Photo E. Moses) 






The Island of Hawaii 


11 


crater with steam cracks. The third trail, on the east, goes to 
the Alealea crater, large and deep with a double floor, and the 
last trail, also on the east, leads to the largest and most famous 
of the chain, Makaopuhi, a magnificent, double-floored crater, 
beautifully wooded, with smoking sulphur hanks. About 4 miles 
further east is another crater, which is seldom visited, there being 
no trail made to it. From the Makaopuhi side trail junction, 
which is about 8 miles from the Volcano House, the trail con¬ 
tinues, into Puna, through splendid forest. No habitation is 
passed, except that of Pea, a Hawaiian rancher, until Kahaualea 
is reached (see Puna). The last part of this trail, before it strikes 
down into the coast flats, is not particularly good, but can be 
traversed on horseback. (For this entire region see map.) 

Northwest of the Volcano House is another interesting region. 
The first east side road from the main road leading to Kau, goes 
into the famous fern forest, with its magnificent growth of gigan¬ 
tic tree ferns. The second east trail leads to the gate of the Ship- 
man ranch. Just beyond this a trail, turning sharply to the 
left, leads to the tree moulds, formed where the lava surrounded 
trees, and, burning them out, left holes as casts of the trees. 
The main trail leads to the ranch house, and through the paddocks 
into the splendid forest of gigantic koa trees, beyond the old 
lumber mill, whence leads a railroad track, used for hauling the 
logs to a point close to the Volcano House, whence they are taken 
by wagon to Glenwood. It affords a good walk through koa 
and fern forest, emerging near the hotel. Both koa and fern 
forests are traversed by good trail's, made by the loggers. From 
the ranch house a trail leads west to a small peach and fig 
orchard. Another trail leads from the ranch house to Puu Oo 
ranch on the mountain slope. A trail follows the N. W. side of 
the crater to the Uwekahuna bluff, whence a good view is had of 
the crater, pit and surrounding country. 

The Volcano is famed in both legends and history. The 
legend has it that Pele, the goddess of volcanoes, immigrated, with 
six sisters, a brother and others, from Kahiki, and settled on 
Hawaii, after having lived on Oahu, Maui and Molokai. After 
having lived in various Puna craters (see Puna), Pele settled at 
Halemaumau, although she also caused the Mauna Loa and the 
Hualalai eruptions. In this region she was feared more than 
any other deity, and no one dared approach without making an 
offering of ohelo berries. At times of eruptions great sacrifices 
were made to appease her anger. The demi-god Kaneapua once 
approached the crater as a suitor to Pele. In spite of the advice 
of her sisters, she made fun of Kaneapua, and after an exchange 
of repartee, a battle began, Pele using fire and Kaneapua water, 
Pele narrowly escaping having the crater fires drowned out. A 
truce was finally made, whereby the Wailuku river was fixed as a 
boundary. Pele agreed never to cause eruptions north of the 
river, and, as a matter of fact, no lava flows have ever occurred 
north thereof; while Kaneapua agreed never to cause freshets 
south of this boundary. 



LAVA FREAK (Photo Perkins) 




The Island of Hazmii 


13 


In 1790 Keoua the Kau chief who was Kamehameha’s main 
antagonist, passed with his army, in three divisions, along the 
trail, which was then east of the present Kau road. A terrific 
earthquake took place, as well as an eruption of sand and cinders, 
which fell in a shower for miles around, destroying the middle 
party. This led the people to believe that Pele sided with 
Kamehameha. In 1824 Queen Kapiolani decided to break the 
belief in Pele, and in spite of warnings from the priestess of Pele, 
she journeyed from Kealakekua to the crater, where she ad¬ 
vanced, quoting scriptures, to within 500 feet of the black ledge, 
and there she threw stones into the crater and ate berries conse¬ 
crated to Pele, at the same time defying the goddess to destroy 
her. 



BOILING POTS (Photo E. Moses) 




The Mountain Country 

HE MOUNTAINS of Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa and 
Hualalai and the highlands surrounding them are 
comparatively seldom visited, as the journeys to the 
summits are attended with difficulties, unless the 
traveler can depend on the ranch stations for assist¬ 
ance. The map shows the trails and stations. The 
Pun Oo ranch is ordinarily the starting place for the summit of 
Mauna Kea, though this mountain may be ascended from almost 
any side. From Hilo or the Volcano House to the ranch is a good 
day’s ride. From Hilo one follows the Kaumana road to the 
end of the wagon road at the big flume. Here one should take 
the first trail left of the last house on the road and take the 
trail across the lava flow. At about 3500 feet elevation is a 
cave at the left of the trail with drinking water. The last part 
of the trail is across grass. From Pun Oo one must take a guide 
to the summit, the trip from that point to the top and back being 
made in a day. Near the summit is a lake, as well as a quarry 
where the old Hawaiians made stone implements. Snow is gen¬ 
erally found near the top. 

The ascent of Mauna Loa is more seldom made as it is more 
arduous, and as the top can be gained only from a few directions. 
At this writing the Volcano Stables Co. is preparing a trail, with a 
camp, which will start near the gate which crosses the Volcano- 
Kau road east of Kapapala. When this is finished, the trip can 
be made by antoing to the camp in an afternoon, making the 
trip from camp to summit and hack to camp in a day, returning 
the following day. It is also possible to make the trip from the 
Pualehua station, in Kona, to the summit and back to the station 
in a day. 

The Hualalai mountain is more accessible. The Judd road, 
which was intended to lead in a straight line from Kona into 
Hilo, but was abandoned, leads to the Ahua o Umi, where King 
Umi held the first census. He had the population from each dis¬ 
trict make a pile of stones, each person depositing a stone, the 
size of the piles indicating the relative sizes of the population of 
the districts. A better trail to this point leads from the Pnalehua 
station. It was formerly a wagon road, used for carting wool 
to the beach. A short distance below the ahua, N. of the 
Judd road, is a cave with an unfailing water supply. Another 
trail leads from Kainaliu, crossing the Judd road a few miles 
mauka of the upper road, to the Hualalai summit. It passes 
several craters. On the N. side of the summit is a blowhole, 









16 


The Island of Hazuaii 


known as the “bottomless pit.” Still another trail runs from the 
Judd road to the summit. It passes a sandy plain which was used 
by the old Hawaiians for races and other sports. A trip, cover¬ 
ing all the points mentioned, can be made in a day. Hawaiian 
guides can be had at Kainaliu, at from $2.50 to $3 a day. All the 
summits offer splendid views of the entire island, as well as of 
the other islands in the distance. 




The Town of Hilo 


HE TOWN of Hilo is second to Honolulu only in 
size and importance. The town is situated on a 
slope rising above a crescent shaped bay, with a 
broad sand beach, and presents a fine sight from 
the sea, with the palm-fringed Cocoanut Island, 
near the wharf, and with the often snow-capped 
summits of Mauna Kea and Mauna Loa in the background. The 
main town is situated between two rivers, Wailoa (south) and 
Wailuku (north). South of the Wailoa is the Waiakea suburb, 
the waterfront center, and north of the Wailuku is the Puueo 
suburb, mainly a residential quarter. (For further details see 
map.) 

Hilo is rapidly increasing in commercial importance, the ex¬ 
tension of the Hilo R. R. Co. track, which has been pushed north 
as far as Paauilo, and which already extends south far into Puna, 
and west to within nine miles of the crater, being an important 
factor. A wharf now receives Island steamers, and another wharf 
is being constructed at which ocean steamers may dock. A great 
breakwater is now in course of construction, which will give Hilo 
the best and largest harbor in the territory. Its completion, and 
that of the Panama Canal, must contribute greatly to the develop¬ 
ment of the town, as it is a couple of hundred miles closer to the 
direct route between Panama and the Orient than is any other 
island port. 



Hotels. 

Hilo Hotel—Rates: $5 a day, $28 a week, $75 a month up. 
(See supplement). 

Demosthenes—Rates: $3 a day, $17.50 a week, $50 a month. 
(See supplement). 

Mrs. Weights—Rates: $2.50 a day, $40 a month. On School 
street. 

Mrs. Andrews—Rates : $2.50 a day. Reduction by week or 
longer stay. On Waianuenue street. 

There are other, cheaper, lodging houses. 

Churches, Lodges, etc. 

First Foreign Church (Congregational)—Corner of Pitman and 
Church streets. Services every Sunday morning and evening. 

Church of the Holy Apostles (Episcopalian)—On Waianuenue 
street. Services every Sunday morning and evening. 















WAILUKU RIVER. (Photo E. Moses) 









The Island of Hazmii 


19 


Catholic church on Bridge street, 
scattered about town. 


Various Hawaiian churches 


Public government schools on Waianuenue street and in 
suburbs. Catholic boys’ school at head of Waianuenue street. 
Catholic girls’ school on School street. Hilo Boarding school on 
School street. 1 his institution is particularly interesting, as here 
are trained youths of all nationalities in various trades, as well 
as academic courses. It has a fine agricultural department, and 
Hawaiian handicraft work is on sale. 

The Masonic Temple is a fine building on the corner of Waia¬ 
nuenue and Bridge streets. The Elks’ headquarters are on King 
street. There are also lodges of the K. of P., Foresters, Moose 
and others. 


Hilo is the county seat, with the county building, the circuit 
courthouse, jail, etc. 

1 he Mooheau Park, with the band stand where are given semi¬ 
weekly concerts, and where baseball games take place, is right 
in town by the beach. 


The Wailuku River. 

This river was in early days a great market place. Its falls 
which can be seen from the Pitman street bridge, are pretty at 
high water. The northerly one, known as Make (death) fall, is 
dangerous, but down the other, swimmers may often be seen 
coasting. 

Rainbow Falls—This famous waterfall lies a little over a mile 
from town. One follows Waianuenue street mauka, until the 
road forks, when the northerly branch is taken. A few hundred 
yards beyond the first bridge crossed, makai of the road, lies the 
park, which has been set aside right b v the fall. The legend has 
it that the goddess Hina lived in the cave under the fall. A 
dragon, Kuna-moo tried to drown her by throwing up a dam 
makai of the falls. She called for aid to her son, Maui, who 
was at the time at Haleakala, trying to lasso the sun. He crossed 
(the ocean in his canoe in two strokes (the double rock at the 
mouth of the river is still called “Maui’s canoe”) and chased 
the dragon to the “Boiling Pots,” where he threw red-hot stones 
in the water, scalding the monster, which he finally killed. 

The Boiling Pots lie 2.7 miles from Hilo, on the road past 
Rainbow Falls. After passing the flume which crosses the road, 
the spot where one must leave the road and go on foot to the falls 
can be found by counting the small culverts beyond the flume. 
At the second of these, composed of half a dozen planks, at a 
spot where the fences come close to each other, one turns to the 
right, through a cane field, going at a right angle to the road for 
about five minutes, when the gulch is reached. Here the falls 
may be seen mauka. They are a series of falls, which can be 
reached by a path along the gulch. A flume runs over them, with 
a foot bridge to the north side of the gulch. The name is de- 



MAKE FALLS (Photo E. Moses) 




The Island of Hawaii 


21 


rived from the fact that the water passes from one pool down to 
another through subterranean passages, bubbling forth so as to 
look like water boiling in a huge cauldron. It is possible to 
climb from the bottom to the top of the series of falls. The road 
continues mauka to the Piihonua plantation camp, near which 
there are numerous other beautiful falls. 

The Kaumana Caves. 

These caves are really a vast subterranean passage, formed un¬ 
der the 1880 lava flow. It started from a crevice on the side of 
Manna Loa and ran for 45 miles to within one mile of the town, 
the eruption continuing ten months. To reach the entrance one 
follows Waianuenue street mauka one mile where it forks. One 
takes the south fork, where the road leads to Kaumana, and fol¬ 
lows it several miles, the entrance being a few hundred yards 
above the Japanese blacksmith shop on the right hand side of 
the road. A ladder leads down into a small ravine, where one 
entrance leads to the makai cave and another to the mauka one. 
Both contain interesting stalactites and lava specimens. The 
makai cave becomes in several places a “double-decker,” but the 
main tunnel is not difficult to follow, though care should be 
noted in marking the road, so as to prevent following side tunnels 
on the return. A few hundred feet from the entrance the going 
is rather poor, owing to fallen stone barriers and the lowness of 
the roof. A bit further on it widens into a lofty cavern with a 
fairly smooth floor, which continues for miles, no one having 
reached the end. The mauka cave is more easy of traverse. One 
may walk through a lofty tunnel for about 15 minutes, when 
one may emerge through another hole. Only the last couple of 
hundred feet are rough, owing to a jumble of rock. 

Kaipalaoa. 

The beach where the postoffice stands (the land makai there¬ 
of was built up by accretion in recent years) was known as the 
Kaipalaoa beach (the sea of whale ivory). Here stood the chiefs’ 
houses. Before Kamehameha had conquered Hilo, he once 
landed at Papae (on the beach, near Puna), where he pursued 
two fishermen, but was incapacitated by getting his foot caught 
in a lava crack. One of the two then wounded him in 
the head with a paddle, and he and the others threw spears at the 
king, who warded them off, and he was rescued by his followers. 
Later, when Hilo had been conquered, the two men were brought 
before the king at Kaipalaoa, and his retainers urged him to 
have them killed. The king, however, refrained from taking 
revenge, and here he proclaimed the great Mamalahoa law, for 
the protection of the weak against the strong, whereby the old, 
the weak and the children might pass on the roads unmolested. 
He also allowed the two to take from his store house on the beach 
as much as they couhUcarry. 



COCOANUT ISLAND 







23 


The Island of Hawaii 

The Naha Stone. 

This large stone lies in the yard of the first hou^e on the north 
side of Waianuenue street, above Pleasant. When Kamehameha, 
as a youth, visited Hilo, he was told by a prophetess that if he 
moved the stone he would conquer Hawaii, but if he turned it, he 
would conquer all the islands. Pie turned it, and his faith in this 
prophecy inspired him to persevere in the fight through times of 
adversity. 

The Halae Hills. 

These hills, lying in a prominent position mauka of the town, 
are known as the place where Maui, the demi-god, secured the 
secret of making fire by rubbing dry pieces of wood together. 
An alae bird possessed this secret. Maui snared it, and by 
threatening to kill it, he compelled it to disclose the secret. 

The Aquarium, at the corner of Front street and the road lead¬ 
ing to the wharf, contains an interesting collection of fish. 


Cocoanut Island (Mokuola). 

When the demi-god Maui with his magic hook fished the island 
of Maui up from the sea, one of his brothers, who was in the 
canoe with him, disregarded his command not to look back, and 
consequently Maui’s plan to connect Maui with Hawaii failed. 
The island of Maui slipped back to its present position, and only 
a small piece thereof, Cocoanut Island, remained on the hook. 
The mark of the hook is shown near the springboard. 

Mokuola and Makaoku, the piece of the mainland opposite the 
island, formed a place of refuge, where warriors and others 
retired in times of defeat and had safety. It contained about 36 
acres, a lava crack marking the boundary. Where the Kennedy 
house stands, east of the Island, human sacrifices were made and 
the remains fed to the sharks. The Island is now Hilo’s famous 
bathing place. There are several public bath houses, and Ha- 
waiians ferry visitors across the channel for a small sum. 


The Bay, Wailoa River and South Thereof. 

Hilo Bay is a fine sheet of water for boating, and launches may 
be had at the Wailoa river landings, which will go to all points in, 
and to places outside, the bay. (Reinhardts—Cocoanut Island 
round trip, 25 cents. Breakwater, 50 cents. Excursions up river 
or along the coast, parties of 1 to 10, $2.50. Larger parties, $3.50 
per hour. Osorios—Cocoanut Island, 25 cents, if more than one 
person. Bay trips, $1.50 per person per hour.) The river is quite 
pretty, and at its mouth is a busy waterfront with sampans, 
and landing places for freight. The breakwater extends several 
thousand feet out to sea, and construction will be carried on for 
several years. Reed’s Bay is a picturesque inlet, with residences 
along its shores, a short distance east of Cocoanut Island. Be- 



RAINBOW FALLS 





The Island of Hawaii 


25 


yond the breakwater, which is reached hy a continuation of Front 
street, the road runs on to a point four miles from the postoffice, 
Lokoaka, where there is a fine bay, with an island and a pretty 
lagoon, as well as several extensive fish ponds. Here the demi- 
goddess Waka and her granddaughter, Laieokawai, (famous on 
Oahu), hid in a cave under the water of the pond, when they were 
pursued by priests who wanted Waka to remain at their temple. 
From Lokoaka the deities went to Paliuli, the Hawaiian paradise, 
which is supposed to still exist in the forests mauka, but which 
has been found only once by a mortal, and he could not find it 
again. 

From Lokoaka it is possible to proceed by foot (or with care 
on horseback) over the fish pond dike and by trail to Waiuli, a 
small fishing village, and thence, by a still poorer trail, to Waio- 
kawa, where was a village with a heiau, of which nothing remains. 
A few miles further on is Paukupahu, where there are a few 
grass houses, and a couple of miles further on still is Papae (see 
Kaipalaoa). Hence a trail, which cannot be found without a 
guide, leads to the old Puna trail, which from this point south 
is in good condition. It leads into Puna to the Shipman ranch 
house. The lava country between the road to Lokoaka and Puna 
is crossed by many trails. The main one leads from this road 
to Paukupahu. These should not be taken without a guide. 





ONOMEA ARCH (Photo Perkins) 





South of Hilo Town 
to Hamakua 


HE MAIN road passes over the Pitman street 
bridge. A block north a good, though steep, road 
leads through the Wainaku cane fields to the forest 
line, good plantation roads radiating from it, it be¬ 
ing possible to cross to the Kaiwiki road, which 
leads mauka, from the Wainaku mill, to the 
Kaiwiki homesteads, whence a poor trail continues into the forest. 
The belt road passes through Puueo, then through the Wainaku 
plantation headquarters, through the Honolii gulch, with its pretty 
river, and through the Onomea plantation headquarters at Papai- 
kou, whence a road leads to the mill and landing (like many of 
the landings here, a cable is used for transporting cargo to and 
from landing to steamer). The road passes the Paihaaloa depot. 
A little way beyond it is a yellow church, mauka of the road. This 
is Aleamai, where stood a heiau, “Pahukapu,” so called because its 
tabu was announced by the sound of a drum. Only part of the 
main altar stone is left, a few hundred feet makai of the road. 
A little further on are two churches, opposite each other. This 
place is Kalaoa, where Kamehameha II was born. The road 
passes through several pretty gulches, each one having steep 
trails leading to the sea, where pretty hits of landscape are often 
found. It then passes above the Onomea settlement, one of the 
most easily accessible typical Hawaiian villages, with grass houses, 
taro patches, cocoanut, mango and breadfruit trees, canoes, etc. 
Trails lead down into it on both the north and the south side, 
it being possible to ride down one, through the settlement, where 
a small stream must be forded, and up the other. The north 
trail continues right up to the railway station. In the sea makai 
of this settlement is the Kane stone, said to have been placed there 
by Kane, the Hawaiian creator. The main sight, however, is 
the ONOMEA ARCH, a great natural bridge at the end of the 
cliff on the north side of the village, which is famous for its 
beauty and its unique formation. To reach the arch one must 
take a trail leading makai from the main road on the north side of 
the ridge which ends in the arch. The next gulch is Kawainui. 
A stream passes through a tunnel above the road, and forms a 
waterfall a short distance below it. Beyond the Kawainui depot, 
the road passes the Pepeekeo school and hospital, and then the 
PEPEEKEO store, whence a road leads makai to the mill and 
landing, where there is a burial cave; the entrance to which has, 
however, been blocked with rocks. A couple of hundred feet 
north of the store a good road leads through the cane to two 














ONOMEA SETTLEMENT 















7 he Island of Hawaii 


29 


cone-like hills, which hold a conspicuous position. They are very 
pretty, overgrown with forest, and afford a fine view. An ancient 
heiau is said to be hidden under the undergrowth. Here, says 
the legend, was the landing place of the Hawaiian Noah. From 
the Pepeekeo mill a road runs makai, northward, which joins the 
main road a couple of miles further on. The main road runs 
through several beautiful gulches, notably the Honornu gulch, 
north of which lies the HONOMU plantation headquarters. 
Hence two stone roads lead mauka. The southerly one, pass¬ 
able with care for autos, leads to the AKAKA fall, the finest 
on the Island, where a splendid cascade tumbles over a lofty 
cliff in a straight fall into a pool at the bottom of a deep gorge, 
which is particularly beautiful. To reach it one must follow the 
road mentioned straight mauka until the camp near the forest 
line is reached, a distance of about 2 14 miles. Here, just below 
a clump of houses surrounded by eucalyptus trees, one takes a 
six-foot stone-paved road, leading across a shallow stream and 
gulch, taking a sharp turn to a still narrower road, the first 
on the north side. Follow this to the flume, and follow flume to 
ditch, following the trail along the ditch straight to the fall. To 
g;et a full view of the fall one should descend about thirty feet 
by a short trail leading down the gulch side where the ditch 
strikes the gulch. 

North of Honornu the main road passes through the Kolikoli 
gulch, the Wailea village and HAIvALAU, the headquarters, 
landing and mill of the plantation of that name, the latter lying 
at the mouth of a very deep and wide gulch, which is reported 
to have been a robbers’ stronghold in ancient days. Volcano 
Stables branch at Hakalau. Further north the road passes 
through the Opea gulch (where the big breadfruit trees are), the 
village of Honohina (with the landing for one division of the 
Hakalau plantation), the Nanue gulch (with the highest flume and 
railroad bridge, about 225 feet), the Waikaumalo gulch, and the 
Pohakupuka gulch, which derives its name (stone hole) from a 
perforated stone in the bottom of the ravine, makai of the road 
on the south side. The Maulua gulch is particularly wide and 
opens to the beautiful bay by that name, where the road passes 
along the edge of a great bluff above the sea. The road goes 
through several small gulches and reaches PAPAALOA, the mill 
and landing for the Laupahoehoe Sugar Co. Here the road 
splits into three, the belt road being in the middle. It leads 
through the Kihalani gulch, down to the village of Laupahoehoe. 


Laupahoehoe. 

Laupahoehoe (leaf of lava) is an extensive village situated at 
the mouth of a deep gulch, on a flat stretch of land. It has the 
only landing used for passengers on this side of the Island, out¬ 
side of Hilo. It has a hotel (Rates: $1 a day. $10 a month). 
Opposite the hotel, which sells no meals, is a good Chinese restau¬ 
rant (Dinner $1. Other meals 50c each. Longer stays $1.50 a 



LAUPAHOEHOE 



The Island of Hawaii 


31 


day). 1 here is a branch of the Volcano Stables Co. Laupa- 
hoehoe is one of the great places of Hawaiian history and folk¬ 
lore, though most of this is rapidly being forgotten. There 
were many heiaus here, probably because here was the only beach 
along the coast where convenient access could be had to the 
Kind of rocks generally used in their construction. The largest of 
these, Haakoa, was on the top of the pali north of the gulch. 
Here lived Umi, a famous king. Only scattered stones remain. 
Moiapuhi was another heiau, on the flat sand and stone beach on 
the south side of the flat. It was destroyed in order that its 
stones might be used for the foundations of the old Laupahoehoe 
mill, before the present mill was built at Papaaloa. On the court¬ 
house grounds stood another heiau, Papaulekii, and the old Ha- 
waiians still insist that on certain nights the jail is haunted. 
Near the lighthouse site stood still another heiau, Lonopuha, 
where a great and famous sacrificial stone is hidden. The Ha- 
waiians claim that only one man today knows its hiding place, 
and he will not reveal it, fearing that the gods will punish him 
with death should he do so. Hakalau was still another heiau, 
which stood by the cocoanut grove on the south side of the set¬ 
tlement. It is reported that on the night of Ku, particularly, 
drumming was heard from various of the heiaus, one taking it up 
after the other. The order in which it began and ended was 
fraught with significance. Thus if it began and ended in a certain 
rotation, it presaged death. The surf south of the settlement is 
called the “Nalu o Umi,” the surf of Umi. When Umi came 
to Laupahoehoe, the chief who reigned there, Paiea, was a famous 
surf-rider, and the surf was called after him the “Nalu o Paiea.” 
Umi, who was also a fine surf-rider, challenged him to a race. 
They agreed that the loser should be baked in an imu (oven). 
They started out with their surf boards, Umi leading the way. 
They started back from far out at sea, but as they neared the 
settlement, Umi was swamped. He dived and managed to reach 
the shore before Paiea, who was baked at the flat place near the 
lighthouse. Umi succeeded Paiea as ruler, and the surf was 
named after him. Leaving Laupahoehoe the road passes, north, 
through the big Kaawalii gulch, and on to Hamakua. 



WINDWARD COAST (Photo E. Moses) 





Hamakua District 


HE PHYSICAL features of Hamakua are much 
like those of Hilo. It rises with steep bluffs from 
the sea, and is cut up by deep gulches. Cane is 
planted throughout the length of the district as 
far as the extreme northern end, where a deep 
gulch and mountain country lies. The government 
road runs throughout the district as far as the gulch country. 

North of Ookala the main gulches are KUULA, PUNOHU and 
KEALAKAHA, where the tall kukui trees are. At the mouth of 
this gulch Poliahu, the princess of Mauna Kea, sat and tried to 
fascinate, siren-like, Aiwohikupua, the Kauai chief, when he was 
returning from Hilo where he had unsuccessfully wooed 
Laieokawai. 

The gulch on the south side of Kukaiau is named MAIUUKE- 
LELELEI. It is famous as the site of a great battle between 
Kamehameha and King Keoua, of Kau, the fight ending here after 
it had raged from one end of Hamakua to the other. The de¬ 
ciding engagement took place about a quarter of a mile above 
the present road, where the old road crossed the gulch. Keoua, 
when defeated, ran to the place where the KOHOLALELE 
gulch, north of Kukaiau, joins with the Kukaiau gulch. Here, 
on the Hilo side, is a stone of refuge, where Keoua remained 
until the victorious forces had withdrawn, when he returned to¬ 
wards Kau. The stone is called Keoua’s stone until today. 

KUKAIAU is the headquarters for the Kukaiau plantation. 
The manager’s residence, the old Horner house and the store are 
on the mauka side of the road. Makai a rather steep road leads 
to the mill and the landing. The latter is a very beautiful spot 
where the daughter of Minister Stevens was drowned. She had 
been lowered into the boat in a box from the crane, when a 
wrangle occurred between the sailors, who through lack of at¬ 
tention let the boat drift onto the spit of rock which juts out 
makai of the landing platform. Makai of the mill manager’s 
residence a pretty little trail runs along the bluff for a short 
distance. From it may be seen on the south side of the bluff, 
a cave near the landing. A couple of curiously placed sticks indi¬ 
cate that it was used by humans years ago, but, as far as is known, 
the cave is unexplored at the present time on account of its in¬ 
accessibility. 

From Kukaiau to Paauilo one may follow the government road, 
which is far the easiest and shortest route. It is also possible 
to go along a makai road, a good road running along the bluff, 
through several gulches, past the Koholalele landing (whence a 













WAIPIO VALLEY 







The Island of Hawaii 


35 


road goes mauka to the government road) and to the Hamakua 
Mill Co.'s mill, whence another road runs mauka to the Paauilo 
village. 

KOHOLALELE is the plantation landing. It is famous for 
many reasons. The name is derived from the report that cen¬ 
turies ago a whale (kohola) made a leap (lele) which landed it 
on the rocky point where it remained stranded. Makai of the 
point is a large submerged rock, which is known as the spot 
where the akule and certain other kinds of fish which appear 
only at certain seasons, make their first appearance each year, 
before being seen at any other point in Hawaii. 

At Ivoholalele was a famous heiau, “Manini,” which was built 
in the dim past, and was reconstructed by King Liloa, in about 
1460. On that occasion 24 human sacrifices were offered. When 
Liloa died, Umi and his half-brother, Hakau, both wanted to 
succeed him as king. The high priest had the family war god 
at this heiau, and Umi raced from Laupahoehoe and Hakau from 
Waipio to secure it. Umi won and thus secured the title. 

Where the government trig, station now stands was a kuula 
where fishermen worshiped. 

The PAAUILO village is one of the prettiest in Hamakua, 
much good work having been done through the planting of trees. 
The residences are also particularly good. At the north end of 
the village a road leads mauka, through a gate, which leads to the 
upper homestead road. Here were made the first local tobacco 
growing experiments on a scientific basis. They were successful 
except for the fact that they were not carried on on a scale suffi¬ 
ciently large to make the sale of the product profitable. This 
section is second in fame only to Kona as a coffee producer. 
South of the junction of the road with the mauka road is the 
coffee plantation and mill of Chas. Notley, the veteran leader 
of the Hawaiian Home Rule party. Still larger is the famous 
Louisson plantation, further north, past the junction. The 
mauka road passes through fine forest and several gulches, and 
through the KALOPA homesteads, inhabited mainly by Portu¬ 
guese, planting coffee and cane. It joins the main road further 
on. From Paauilo to the first junction is about two miles, and 
from this point to the place where it joins the main road, south 
of Paauhau is about four miles. 1 he road is fair. 

The main government road, north of Paauilo, passes through 
the big Kuliu gulch, where the irrigation ditch may be seen near 
the road. This was in ancient days known as a robbers’ strong¬ 
hold. The other large gulches are Eliala and Kahaupa. 

A side road, makai, with a signpost, leads to the landing of 
the PAAUHAU plantation. Further north is HONOKAA, the 
most important village of the district. Here are the courthouse 
and two hotels. The Honokaa Hotel (Mrs. Rickard) lies at 
the south end of the village, opposite the telephone office (Rates: 
$1 a night, dinner $1, other meals 50 cents each. $35 a month). 
Another hotel, with a Japanese proprietor, lies in the center of 
the village (Rates: $1 for dinner, other meals 50 cents each. 


36 


The Island of Hawaii 


$1 a night. By the week $2.50 a day, $35 a month). The Vol¬ 
cano Stables Co. has a branch stable and garage here. 

A good road leads to the Honokaa mill and landing, a road 
along the bluff running between the Honokaa and the Paauhau 
mills. At the landing was a heiau, “Wawaemakilo” (beggars 
foot). This place is also known in the legend as the place 
where Kane, the creator, colored the fish. 

Makai of the telephone office is one of the entrances to a 
subterranean passage which runs right to the sea, though this 
section is hard to pass through. The passage also runs mauka, 
under the government road, and may be entered through a break 
in the roof a bit above the Rickard Hotel. Hence it may be fol¬ 
lowed mauka for several miles, this section being more easily 
traversed. 

From the' north end of the village a section of the belt road 
leads, through the AHUALOA homesteads, to Waimea (Ko- 
hala). The government road also runs northward, through the 
Honokaa cane fields, past the KAPULENA village. Beyond 
this several roads branch from it. At a junction of two roads, 
from mauka, with the main road, a short distance above a reser¬ 
voir, the south branch road is merely a plantation road of no 
purport to the traveler. The north branch joins Mud Lane 
further mauka (thus leading to Waimea). The same is the case 
with the next mauka branch road. Further on, by a warehouse, 
a road leads makai to the Kukuihaele landing. 

The KUKUIHAELE village is the headquarters for the K. 
plantation. Here another road leads to the mill and landing. 
Mauka a road, very rocky, leads to Waimea. It is not to be 
recommended. Further south, another, in good condition, does 
the same. It is marked “Private,” belongs to the plantation, 
and is at times barred to vehicle travel by flumes. Further south 
comes MUD LANE. The two roads mentioned above join it, 
the first at the 1494 foot bench mark, the other about half a 
mile further mauka, at the camp marked 10. At the 2000 foot 
elevation forest takes the place of the cane. At about six miles 
from Kukuihaele is the Baker ranch, and a few hundred feet 
mauka thereof a branch of the upper Hamakua ditch. A short 
distance further mauka is the junction with the Ahualoa road, 
leading from Honokaa, and hence one road leads through plains 
country to WAIMEA (Kohala). 


Waipio and Waimanu. 

About half a mile north of Kukuihaele a road leads down the 
precipitous gulch side into WAIPIO valley, one of the most 
famous in the Hawaiian Islands, owing to its beauty, fer¬ 
tility and historic associations. It consists of a very wide flat 
of land between two precipitous bluffs. The bottom is traversed 
by many streams, which irrigate extensive taro and rice planta¬ 
tions. There are a number of poi factories which supply a large 
part of the Island. The population is exclusively Hawaiian and 


The Island of Hawaii 


37 


Chinese. I here is no hotel and no restaurant, but lodgings may 
he secured from hospitable Hawaiians, and plain, though sub¬ 
stantial meals, of which eggs and fish are the pieces de resistance, 
may be had at the Chinese stores. The main village, of which 
the prettiest part is hidden from view from the top of the bluff, 
is particularly beautiful and typical of old Hawaii. There are 
many good houses, and the lanes, between great stone fences, 
are very pretty. The houses are half hidden by a profuse wealth 
of tropical foliage of all kinds with flowering vines and shrubs 
running riot. Mauka the valley is split into several branches. 
The one nearest Kukuihaele contains the bed of the once beau¬ 
tiful HULA WE falls, famed in song and story, but now nearly 
all the water is diverted above by the plantation. 

By fording the main stream one may reach the north side of 
the valley, where many pretty homes nestle against the cliff, 
affording some fine bits of scenery. Back of a clump of cocoa- 
nut and breadfruit trees lies the NENEUE fall. Here, says a 
legend, was born a man on whose back was the face of a shark. 
A basin in the waterfall is shown as the place where he slept 
when his shark nature overcame him. Once, when a group of 
people passed him to go fishing, he warned them that if they en¬ 
tered the sea, they would be taken by the shark. They persisted in 
going on, and he reached the ocean before they did, by swim¬ 
ming down the stream. In the sea he remained in wait for them 
and ate them when they entered the water. KE ALA O KE 
KAHUNA, the road of the kahunas, is another fall further 
makai. Here the layman was not allowed to trespass. A trail 
swings along the’beach to PAAKALANA, where a group of tall 
cocoanut trees stands. This was a famous place of refuge 
(puuhonua) for this entire section of the island. It was built 
about 1415 and had most sacred tabus. Its deity was Lono. It 
was destroyed by a Kauai king about 1790. 

One of the kings of Waipio was Hakau, known for his cru¬ 
elty. If he heard a man praised for having a fine head, he 
would have him beheaded. He had the arm cut off another, 
because the tattooing thereon was finer than that on his own. 
Finally Hakau was killed by a band of his people, who approached 
him bearing stones wrapped in ti leaves so as to give them the 
appearance of being offerings of food. When they reached the 
king, they stoned him with them. 

At Waipio was the entrance to the “lua” or pit of MILU, an 
ancient chief of Hamakua, notorious for his wickedness, having 
become, after his death, the ruler of this Hawaiian Hades. This 
entrance was at the mouth of the valley, at a place called “ke 
one” (the sand), but it has long since been covered by the sand. 

In calm weather there is good bathing from the Waipio beach, 
but it should not be attempted by non-swimmers. To regain the 
road on the Kukuihaele side one must cross the main stream 
near its mouth. At high tide, when the ford is covered by sev¬ 
eral feet of water, it is generally possible to secure a canoe for 
a ferry. 


— 



WAIMANU VALLEY 










The Island of Hawaii 


39 


On the precipitous cliff facing the sea between Waipio and 
Kukuihaele lived in ancient days certain birds which were much 
prized. Certain men, trained from youth in the art of cliff climb¬ 
ing, and taught to use finger, toe and even chin holds to support 
themselves when scaling the rock, became famed for the perfec¬ 
tion to which they brought their art. Along this cliff may be 
seen the remains of a road which was built a few years ago, but 
which was soon destroyed by landslides. 

Umi, one of the most famous of Hawaiian kings, is said to 
have entrusted a friend with the hiding of his body, and, to kill 
suspicion, he exiled him to Molokai. When Umi died this man 
came to Hawaii. On landing he killed a man, who closely re¬ 
sembled the dead chief, and his body he managed to substitute 
for that of Umi, which he took in a canoe to Waipio, hiding it 
in a cave, Puaahaku, at the top of the great precipice above the 
famous waterfall. 

WAIMANU is the next settlement north of Waipio, and is 
only seldom visited by strangers owing to the poor trail, which, 
however, has a worse name than it deserves. The only really 
bad part is the ascent of the pali from Waipio, which should not 
be attempted on horseback, except by expert riders. The rest of 
the trip, including the descent into Waimanu, may be made in 
comfort on horseback. The distance is less than six miles, but 
the trip takes about three hours owing to the fact that the trail 
zigzags through more than a dozen deep gulches, through gor¬ 
geous mountain scenery, covered with dense vegetation. Near 
Waimanu is a plateau, named Ivaawana, owing to the fact that, 
according to the legend, when a wayfarer called for his com¬ 
panions, the ghosts who inhabited the place would, by imitating 
their voices, lead the traveler astray until he lost his way. Kaa- 
wana, as well as the gulches of Pokahi and Kaukini (both north 
of Waimanu), were noted as the homes of the o-o and other 
birds, the feathers of which were used for cloaks and helmets. 
This was a reserve for the birds, which might be caught only at 
a chief’s command. They were captured by bewildering them 
with smoke from large fires, whereupon they were driven into 
nets. 

In good weather the trip from Waipio to Waimanu may also 
he made by canoe. The latter landing is better than that at 
Waipio, as the surf is shorter. Between the two may be seen a 
spit of land, the result of a landslide occurring in 1911. 

Waimanu is much like Waipio, though the fiat land is less and 
the mountain sides higher. Rice was planted, but the fields have 
been abandoned owing to the difficulty in getting the product out. 
There are several fine waterfalls. The valley is gradually be¬ 
coming depopulated, only a few Hawaiian families remaining 
there. A feature of interest lies in the fact that it is the only 
place in the islands where tapa making is still carried on, though 
at present only one old woman engages therein. The wauke 
trees, whence is secured the raw material, grow on a small 
tongue of land, named Laupahoehoe, which projects into the sea 



HILO WATERFALLS (Photo E. Moses) 




The Island of Hawaii 


41 


a short distance north of Waimanu. It may be reached at low 
tide by walking and wading. Here the trail northward ends, 
owing to the precipitous country. 

A medium sized platform heiau, named Helehiwa, stood on the 
south side of the valley, but houses were built on its site. 


The Hamakua Ditches 

The great Hamakua ditch system, consisting of a lower and 
an upper ditch, used to supply water for irrigation and fluming 
for the Hamakua plantations, affords one of the most splendid 
scenic attractions of the Islands, as the ditches are accompanied 
by trails which lead far into the mountain fastnesses, where there 
is a wealth of wild and impressive scenery. The ditches and 
trails are also interesting as splendid engineering feats. 

1 HE LOWER Dll C1T reaches as far as the lands of the 
Paauilo plantation. It gathers its water from the four great val¬ 
leys into which Waipio is split. These are, in order from Kukui- 
haele northward, WAIMA, KOIAWE, ALEKAHI and KA- 
WAINUI. At each of these is an intake where the water is led 
into the ditch, or rather tunnel, for the entire mountain section 
is, with the exception of the few places where it has been neces¬ 
sary to cross gulches by means of flumes, an enclosed tunnel about 
nine miles long. The trail runs along the ridges where the tunnel 
cuts through. It leads to all the intakes, at each of which is a Jap¬ 
anese keeper’s house, with a telephone. The trail often passes 
along precipices where the fall to the bottom of the valley is a 
couple of thousand feet sheer, and the rise the same distance 
straight up. It should not be traversed except on mountain horses 
or on foot. It begins a bit below the Waipio pali, or may be 
reached by a path through the cane fields starting at the ditch 
company headquarters. It is a fine stone paved trail, easily 
wide enough for a horse, and only its position provides the 
element of danger, which may be eliminated by care. It leads 
above the Hiilawe fall to the Kawainui intake, and between Wai- 
ma and Koiawe a trail leads down into the Waipio valley. It is 
fairly steep at places, but can without difficulty be made on 
horseback, across several fords, and leads through the Waipio 
village to Kukuihaele. A conspicuous feature thereon is the 
grave of Thos. Kelly, a ditch employe who was drowned trying 
to cross a stream in flood time. From the end of the ditch trail 
to Kukuihaele either way is about eight miles. 

THE UPPER HAMAKUA DITCH takes its water from the 
four gulches which feed the lower ditch, but at a much higher 
elevation. The trail is also a good one and presents some even 
grander mountain scenery, as well as some rare birdseye views 
of Waipio and the surrounding country. The trail begins where 
the ditch crosses Mud Lane, about six miles from Kukuihaele. 
It is good and absolutely safe as far as Waima. Here it passes 
along a steep precipice which even ditch employes prefer to pass 

I 


42 


The Island of Hawaii 


on foot, although the trail is very good. This section may be 
avoided by taking another trail which leads up to the ditch from 
Waimea, and which strikes the main trail at Koiawe, whence one 
may enjoy the rest of the trail, to Alekahi and Kawainui, horse¬ 
back, in perfect safety. From the junction of the trails to 
Kawainui is about four miles, and to Waima about two miles. 


South Kohala 


HIS district is probably the least important. The 
bulk thereof is occupied by the great Parker Ranch. 
The main town is WAIMEA, (Kamuela), which 
is situated on the tableland about 2600 ft. being 
the elevation. The village is a pretty one, and is 
the headquarters for the ranch. It has many pretty 
houses, and is known for its bracing climate. A road leads S. E. 
to Mana, formerly the ranch headquarters. A road runs N. into 
North Kohala, another due W. to Kawaihae and another S. E. 
into Kona. Waimea was in ancient days known for the fine 
stature of its men, and from among them Kamehameha secured 
the flower of his army. Several miles south of the village is 
the “Auwai o Kekua,” a volcanic crack, which is supposed to be 
a ditch which the menehunes (brownies) built for the purpose 
of draining the water from the lake near the summit of Mauna 
Ivea, but which they never completed. The legend is the only 
interesting thing about this crack. Near the center of the village 
is the Kamuela Hotel (Rates: $3 a day, $17 a week, special 
rates by the month). 

The road from Waimea to KAWAIHAE is barren and monot¬ 
onous. Kawaihae was at one time important in history. It was 
visited by Vancouver in 1793, when the first cattle were landed 
here. These were allowed to run wild, and they so multiplied 
that a few years afterwards when Kawaihae was a favorite calling 
point for whale ships, they were shot in great number and their 
salted meat sold to the ships. Kawaihae is often used as a port 
by Hamakua people, who prefer landing at this smooth place 
rather than risking the trip to Laupahoehoe, where at times it is 
impossible to land. The village is strung along a fine sand beach, 
and is beautified by a dense growth of algeroba and cocoanut 
trees, which, however extends only a few hundred yards from 
the beach. There is a Chinese hotel and restaurant. The 
Hawaii wireless station is at the north end of the village. Cattle 
and sheep are shipped in great number from Kawaihae. 

PUUKOHOLA (whale hill) is the name of a heiau, one of 
the largest and most famous in the Islands, the fairly well pre¬ 
served remains of which may be seen on an eminence south of 
and hack of the village. It is reported to have been consecrated 
by Lono in about 1580, and to have been rebuilt by Kamehameha 
about 1791 and dedicated to his war god, Kaili. It has high and 
heavy walls, still showing traces of the interior arrangements, 
and having terraces towards the sea. It measures 224 by 100 
feet. 













KAMEHAMEHA STATUE, KOHALA (Photo E. Moses) 














The Island of Hawaii 


45 


MAILEKINJ is another heiau, just makai of Puukohola, about 
270 by 65 feet in area. It consists of a low wall makai and a 
higher wall mauka. One Hawaiian story has it that Kamehame- 
ha set to work first on Mailekini, but was told by his high 
priest to build his heiau higher and overlooking the ocean, as 
thence he was to get great benefit. This is supposed to have 
predicted the arrival of the white men, who greatly aided the 
king in his subsequent campaigns. Kamehameha then went to 
work on Puukohola. On the shore makai thereof was killed 
Keoua, the great king of Kau, who was Kamehameha’s main an¬ 
tagonist. He was killed in the act of leaping ashore, having 
come, at Kamehameha’s invitation, to arrange a treaty. Whether 
his death was brought about by or against Kamehameha’s orders 
is disputed. The bodies of the chief and those who were killed 
with him, were offered on the Puukohola altar, Keoua’s re¬ 
mains having first been baked in an oven at the foot of the hill, 
as a last indignity. 

From Kawaihae a trail runs to PUAKO, a small sugar planta¬ 
tion which grows cane hy artificial irrigation. South thereof the 
trail leads on to Kona (See Kona). 

NORTH KOHALA 

This district is off the belt road, being entered by a branch 
road leading from Waimea. It branches off at the two-mile 
post, west of the village, just beyond the bridge, and is not readily 
distinguished, as it is overgrown with turf. Along about the 
first half of the journey are set mile stones, which are not al¬ 
together accurate, but serve fairly well. These bear U. S. bench 
marks showing the elevations. The road passes through a ranch 
country affording a magnificent view of the three great moun¬ 
tains of Hawaii, Mauna Kea, Manna Loa and Hualalai, in a row 
behind, with the Waimea plains in the foreground. After pass¬ 
ing Kahua, on the east, the road passes several small farm 
holdings, when it forks, one road following the telephone line 
and the main road going to the makai side thereof. They run 
together further down. The road reaches an elevation of over 
3.500 feet, whence it slopes both ways, towards Waimea and 
North Kohala. On the makai side of the main road a road 
branches off to the Puuhue ranch house, whence a road branches 
off to Mahukona. After the joining of the roads, one travels 
along the main road straight past several plantation and home¬ 
stead roads of no interest, until one reaches the crossing of the 
main Kohala road, which runs from one end of the settled part 
of the district to the other. To the right, a short distance from 
this crossing, is the KOHALA CLUB, a hotel, where one can 
obtain rooms and board (Rates: $2.50 a day. If more than a 
week, $2 a day. Special rates for longer stays). It also operates 
a garage and livery stable. 

From the Kohala Club, on the west, the main road leads to 
KAPAAU, where the courthouse stands. Here stands a statue 



KAWAIHAE 







The Island of Hawaii 


47 


of Kamehameha, who was born in the district. It is exactly 
the same as the one which stands in front of the courthouse in 
Honolulu, with the exception that the former is mounted on a 
plainer pedestal, and is flanked by two gilded tabu sticks. This 
statue was originally lost in the sea, but was later on recovered 
by divers. 

Further on a road, with Dr. Bond’s sign-post, leads to the 
Kohala seminary, a boarding school for girls. Here a great 
flume, with a trestle, crosses the road, and a road leads to the 
Kohala Mill Co. mill. I he main road is nearly all the way shaded 
by large trees, standing on both sides. It passes through the pretty 
Wainaia gulch and then, by a cement culvert, across the HA- 
LA WA gulch. A historic rock is mounted on the cement rail 
of the bridge, on the east side, mauka, where it runs into the 
side of the gulch. According to the Hawaiians, this stone was 
a kuula (fish god), belonging to Kamehameha. It stood near 
Ivapanaia, a bathing place on the beach, whence Kamehameha 
once carried it far up mauka into what is now a cane field. 
Thence it was taken a few years ago by road workers and placed 
on the bridge. 

A road leads mauka to the Halawa mill, and, going east, the 
main road passes through the village, through the Walaohia 
and Puwaiole gulches, both pretty and populated; through the 
pretty MAKAPALA village, through the gulch by that same 
name, and to NIULIL Hence one branch leads to the Niulii 
mill, where it ends. The other, striking mauka at Kimo Pake’s 

store, leads through cane fields to the POLOLU valley, where 

rice is planted and where a few Hawaiians live. It is very pretty, 
with a fine sand beach and high, steep mountain sides. Near the 
beach are some tall dunes, covered with dry grass, which are 
used by the children as papa holua, i. e., sleighing places, where 

they coast down the slippery grass at a great rate of speed, af¬ 

fording a good opportunity of seeing how this ancient Hawaiian 
sport was carried on. The trail strikes S. E., zigzagging up the 
mountain side, and passes through the Honokane-nui, Honokane- 
iki and Awini gulches, where the government trail ends. On 
the Niulii side of Pololu, the LOWER KOHALA DITCH trail 
extends, at a higher elevation than the government trail makai, 
to Awini, where is the ditch keeper’s camp. (It is possible to 
make the round trip out by government and home by ditch trail, 
or vice versa.) From Awini the ditch trail continues for miles 
through beautiful mountain country. It is the best known of 
the Hawaii ditch trails. From Awini to Waimanu, the next set¬ 
tlement to the south (See Hamakua) it is possible to go only by 
canoe, or by walking and swimming along the precipitous cliffs 
which separate these valleys. Along this coast is a place where 
the Hawaiians follow a curious method to ascertain whether 
there are sharks about. They throw into the sea sections of the 
stalk of a ti leaf. If they can see it plainly as it sinks through the 
water, the swimming is safe. If, on the other hand, it disappears 
in darkness, .this is supposed to be the shadow of the shark, 
and one must not venture in. 



WAIMEA 






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p oiio|B (jaaj 000> inoqB) suopBAap qSiq aq; t 0 ijBau au; 
onq ajn;sBd piiBqpooM qSnojq; uaq; ‘;Cj;unoa ajnjSBd auq am os 
q Snoj q ; S9SSBd PUB (qno Bpqoxi 3l P uiojj saqui ua A as ;noqB) 
anqnnj ;b suiSaq ;j -paqsiA ap;q ;nq uaaq jbj’os SBq }i ‘suniq 
oip jo a.opa aip uiojj aauBjsip ap;q auios Suiuuna ‘ 9 ibs Xiann 

q pql 9l P J° 9 X ds Ul . ‘inq qnjpm?aq iqjB[nai;j.Bd si 
t- ; b PlX ajBjpuad o; apqssoduii jsouqB asiMjaino aq pinoM ;i 
ipiipu ssaiuappM ap?ad P lib qapiS aq; 0 ;ui P b ' 91 q 3 I q M si bj; uif; 
-unoui aq; jo aaqjouB si U bjj H OXId V1VHO* dWn 9 HX 

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oi no puB iqni]^ oj qiq^ i?p?qo>i iuojj ;sBa ‘sdu; oav; aq j 

•papiq 

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aauBj;ua aqx 'auo BqnBui aq; o; spuaj aaBjja; puB ’ qjBM auo;s 
y qBn;u aayuaBs aq; ui }JBd juBjjodun ub paAppI qatqM ‘qao.i 
jo qinq S[[9 m daap oav; 3jb ‘sjaujoa }SBa oa\; aip ui ‘qpAv uibiu aq; 
apisuj ;au;sip ajpua aq; qSnojq; qaBaq njojoj iuojj uaui jo auir 
b aq puBq o; puBq uiojj passBd sauo;s luoaj (Bi[BjBdBn\j jo ;bii; 
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uaaq aABq o; pps si ;j -paAjasajd qaM UBjd punojS Joua;ui aq; 
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}saq aq; Ajqissod puB suouibj Xj 9 a si nBpq INIMOOH 3l IJ 

pBoj uibui aq; uiof 04 BqnBiu suiu ;i aauaqM ‘quu Baop aq; pm? 
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pauopuBqi? jo Jaqumu b ;si?d ‘qaBaq aq; Suop? -3 - N sp^aj P boj b 
aauapj paddiqs sbav quu iA\Bjq iuojj jbSiis aauaqM ‘Suipimq 9 jia\ p 
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pajaumoaua si qjoj b ‘spjBA\;saA\ Xpaajjp m?aao aq; jo p??q aq 


09 


llDiUDJJ Jo pUVJSJ Dl[J 


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ajiqsBd puB sppy aima qSnojq; sassBd pboj' aq; aauaq i -a.§BJB.§ 
pv\BH aip puB ‘qiui imbh Pl ° 9l P sassBd P boj uibui aq; ;saA\ 
x>uinin;uo3 -BaiuiByW u iO-0 Pu;sip aq; o;m XuipBai pboj uibui 
air; jo uopBnupuoa b .§upq siq; ‘qiui 1101113 9L P oj ib^bui SuipBai 
P J 3L I ; &9SSKd P^oj aq; qn { j Bpqo>j aq; uiojj ;saM Suissb^ 

•saqa;Bd 

ojb; aq; o;ui j 3 ;bm SuipBa! joj pasn qps si ;j - S qjoA\ aqqnd 
spqaiuBqauiB^ jo auo qaiiun; b a as Xbiu auo iqni^q jo b>[ubjy 

•ajnjaid auy b aqBiu pm? aaiiBjqia 
aip pJBii.o ipiijM sjyip asij joajaq; sapis q;oq un uiamjairsu 
. q pasn ajB ipiqM sasnoq ssbjS jo jaqumu b puBjs ajaiiAv ‘qaBaq 
any b si apis piuq aq; uq ‘qSnoj 00? BuoqnqB^ sayBiu uijois 
A piaipnos b uaqM suoisBaao 3 jbj aq; uo SuipuBi jauiBa;s b sb pasn 
si qaiqM ABq pjjpnBaq b VlVNVXVX si spjBAi;sBa jaqqnq 

to ’jaq;BaAv ;aM ui ajquinja Xbui saSpa 

aq] S1 ‘ -oiqqaBOjddB ui paspjaxa aq ppioqs aJBg) uusBiia jBqna 
-ad b sui joj qps q ;nq ‘ui [jaj Bas aq; ;sajBau qBM aq; oSb sjBaX 
[BjaAag mopoq aq; ;b q sja;ua Bas aq; puB ‘auo aSjBj Xjoa b si 
^1 'XfP 9L P J° 9 Spa aq; ;b pauuoj ajoq siq; punoj subiibmbh 
aip .ouiujoiu SuiMoqoj aq X -pajjnaao iujo;s japunq; /ab 31 i b 
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a°Pa 9l P Suo l H 9L 0 u-iojj suado ;aqaiq; BiBirnd'aq; ui >iBajq 

b ajaqM Uuojjajaq; aqiu jajjBnb b ;noqB ‘nBiaq aq; ; 0 apis 
jsaA\ aq; uo ajoq jBqnaad b jo auiBU aq; si INVlV>IOVd ' 

• gS^ loLU 

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pa;sisui uauiOM aq; ‘sSiiiujbm jo a;ids uj -;i uo qpj pmoM 
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51 Ti J?' S U,OJJ "! ,K| XqNS 

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XlAA SI SpjEA\,SAA\ VB q Slllquis luoJJ 3Uf * 


6f 


UDOIDJI Jo puVjS'J Dipp 




50 


The Island of Hawaii 


be had of the ocean directly westwards, a fork is encountered. 
The southerly branch leads past the ancient sugar mill, which 
was the first built on this island, and on to MAHUKONA, which 
is the shipping point for the entire district, hence a railroad runs 
throughout the district, but it carries no regular passenger traffic. 
The north fork leads to HONOIPU, a small village where was 
a wire landing, whence sugar from Hawi mill was shipped. Hence 
a road leads N. E. along the beach, past a number of abandoned 
houses and through some fine grass land, past the Mookini heiau 
and the Hoea mill, whence it runs mauka to join the main road. 

The MOOKINI heiau is very famous and possibly the best 
preserved of the Hawaii temples. It is impossible to miss it, 
as the great pile lies only a couple of hundred yards from the 
road, right where a wire fence, with a gate, crosses the road. 
This fence runs into the east wall of the heiau. It is about 270 
feet long and 130 feet wide, with high and solid walls, and with 
the interior ground plan well preserved. It is said to have been 
built by Paao, the great high priest who headed the most im¬ 
portant of the ancient immigrations from Samoa. He came from 
the island of Upolu, and introduced the use of certain new in¬ 
signia of the tabu and changed the shape and arrangements of 
the heiaus. According to the tradition, this heiau was built (like 
that of Kuapalaha) from stones passed from hand to hand by a 
line of men from Pololu beach through the entire district. Inside 
the main wall, in the two east corners, are two deep wells built of 
rock, which played an important part in the sacrifice ritual. A 
stone walk and terrace leads to the mauka one. The entrance 
faces Honoipu, and there are several wings on the west side. In 
front of the heiau, on the sea side, is a great, reddish stone, which 
is pointed out as the place where the sacrificial victims were 
killed. 

1 he two trips, east from Kohala Club to Niulii and on to 
Pololu, and west, to Honoipu and back by the beach road, past 
Mookini, and past Hoea back to the main road, furnish the best 
way of seeing the most interesting parts of the district proper. 

1 he UPPER KOHALA DITCH trail is another of the moun¬ 
tain trails which lead into the gulch and peak wilderness which 
it would be otherwise almost impossible to penetrate. This trail 
is particularly beautiful, but, in spite of the fact that it is abso¬ 
lutely safe, running some little distance from the edge of the 
bluffs, it has so far been but little visited. It begins at Puuhue 
(about seven miles from the Kohala Club) and passes through 
some line pasture country, then through woodland pasture into 
the heart of the high elevations (about 4,000 feet) along the 
upper reaches of the several branch valleys into which the 
Honokane valley divides itself. It is about twelve miles from 
I imbue to the main ditch camp, whence the trail runs several 
miles further south, along the Kohala mountain ridge. 

, ^*id inns along the beach from Kawaihae to Mahukona, but 

it is a very rough one. 


Kona 



1“ °, f K q ,a 15 many ways a famous 

anH ,1 r S f la "- aS f Parts thereof very fertile 

nart n "l' ’ S fa , mous - It played an important 
part; in history as the scene of many battles and 

J o°ne e h tf n T C , eVe , ntS a J d as the res *^ e 'tce of famous 
from Ma ft, h V n , t le ^ s ^ an ^ s - Parts thereof are verv fertile 
from North to South, the coast section, running; several miles 

them 6 barren 3 'but crn ' cred with ancient lava flows, most of 
tVrHI ?h b ^ ! nterril P ted al °ng the beach by more or less 
fertfle patches, where the warmth has induced a luxuriant 

growth of cocoanuts and other tropical trees. These places are 
t e sites of numerous villages, and form one of the mostTeauti 
ful and interesting parts of the Islands. The upper X is verv 
er 1 e, to a great extent still covered with forest While Kona 
tTtsTl rath fi P00Tly in industrial importance with Sher d“s- 

t , t ’. 11 Pas . of late y ear s become the seat for several rapidlv de 

“V xz* ^S 

SSTcJSS b r ft r0ad and the - mat tdTat 


The Upper Roau. 

The upper road is a section of the belt road, running North to 
Waimea, in Kohala, and South to Waiohinu, in Kau Coming 
from the North the first village is PUUANAHULU, a small 
pool village, situated on a red dirt ridge, formed by a great mud 
How with gates crossing the road at each end. In 'this neighbor¬ 
hood ai *e to . be found rock carvings. Throughout this section 
the country is very dry and barren, and is used mainly for ranch 
purposes. The cattle for months see no water and no food other 
than prickly pear, which they have learned to devour in spite of 
the spines. It serves for both food and drink. 

A few hundred yards South of the settlement an excellent 
road leads mauka to PUUWAAWAA, the headquarters' of the 
ranch by that name. On the makai side of the °-overnment ronrl 
a trail leads to KIHOLO. the ranch’s shipping pS HereThe 
lava flows are covered with vegetation, and some of the more un¬ 
common varieties of trees are seen, notably the wiliwili, a gnarled, 











KONA FISHERMAN (Photo Gurrey) 







The Island of Hawaii 


53 


thickset tree, with a peculiar yellow trunk which makes it easy 
to recognize, and a yellow flower, reminding of that of the 
poinciana regia. The wood is prized by the Hawaiians and is 
used for canoe outriggers, floats, etc. 

Several lava flows are crossed, and. like all such flows in the 
dry regions, they look far more recent than much later flows in 
the wet districts, where the rain has induced a much more rapid 
growth. About one of these is told the following legend: 

Tn a grass house lived two sisters, one a believer in the an¬ 
cient gods and the other a scoffer. An emissary from Pele, pos¬ 
sibly Pele herself, visited the house in the guise of a blear-eyed 
old man. He was badly treated by the scoffer, but was well cared 
for by the other girl. In the evening he told the latter to sleep 
at the North end of the house. The other girl slept at the South 
end. That night the flow came down and swept away the South 
end of the house, destroying the girl who slept there, while the 
North end, and the girl who slept there, remained unhurt. 

Another flow destroyed part of the Kiholo village and a great 
fish pond there. The flows have assumed many fantastic shapes. 

HUEHUE is a ranch headquarters, the second house reached 
South of the lava flows. Just mauka thereof is a hill, rising 
above the slope of the Hualalai base on which the ranch is 
located. A legend has it that the menehunes (Hawaiian 
brownies) wished to carry off the top thereof with a view of 
placing it on top of the hleak lava hill which rises abruptly above 
the flow makai of Huehue. The coming of daylight prevented 
them from carrying out their plan, but a furrow around the hill 
top is pointed out as evidence of their work, and until recently 
kauwila sticks, stuck along this furrow, were to be seen, which, 
said the Hawaiians, were to have been used as means for carry¬ 
ing the hill top. 

From Huehue southward the road passes through fertile lands, 
dotted with prosperous homes of Hawaiians, and some Japanese, 
planters of coffee and other crops. The first road on the makai 
side, bending northward, leads to the KOHANAIKI village, an 
inland settlement without much interest. Further South the road 
passes through the upper HONOKAHAU village (throughout 
the district many villages on the beach and on the upper road 
have the same name), through HOLUALOA, one of the most 
important settlements, whence the North road to Kailua begins. 
Further south another road leads to Kailua (the middle road), 
and still further south, beyond the KAHALUU (upper) village, 
is the south road to Kailua. All three are good. The upper 
road passes through numerous other villages, populated by 
whites, Hawaiians and Japanese, and, mainly in the south end 
of the district, also by Koreans and Filipinos, most of whom are 
engaged in coffee and tobacco planting. Some awa is also being 
planted in recent years. The villages run into each other, so 
it is difficult to say where one ends and another begins. South 
of Kahaluu are KATNALTU, (whence a trail leads to the makai 
village of the same name), KONAWAFNA and KELAKE- 



MILOLII (Photo Gurrey) 




7 he Island of Hawaii 


55 


KUA villages, forming the central part of Kona. At the 
former is situated the Weeks garage (livery), at Konowaena is a 
branch of the hirst Bank of Hilo, and the Yates garage (livery), 
and at Kealakekua the upper mill of the Captain Cook Coffee Co., 
a lower mill which handles both coffee and pineapples being sit¬ 
uated makai on the road leading to Napoopoo. At Ivonawaeana 
is also Miss Paris’ hotel (Rates: $3 a day). 

Makai hereof a good trail leads to Kaawaloa and a road to 
Napoopoo. Further south another road leads to Napoopoo, and 
still further south lie KERI and HONAUNAU, which is con¬ 
nected with the lower village by a trail. Still further south 
comes KEOKEA, the headquarters of a tobacco company, with 
great barns on both sides of the road. A good road runs from 
Keokea to Napoopoo. 

From Keokea southward the road traverses wooded and 
sparsely settled country to PAPA, a small village, whence a road 
leads to Hoopuloa. Further south a trail leads to Hoopuloa (it 
is shorter than the main road, but poor). Hence the road 
strikes southward to Kau, passing on the mauka side a couple 
of trails leading to the HONOMAL1NO ranch, and makai trails 
leading to the beach villages (unimportant). It passes only a 
few Hawaiian houses before it reaches the Kau boundary, bur 
runs through a lava country, some of which is covered with for¬ 
est and other parts barren. 


Kona Beach Trail. 

From Kawaihae (Kohala) a trail runs along the beach past 
Puako (Kohala), across barren lava to KIHOLO, which, accord¬ 
ing to some, is the burial place of Kamehameha the Great. This 
is a cattle shipping point and small fishing village. It passes 
MAKALAWAENA, a small village, connected by trail with the 
upper road. Here Kamehameha is said to have built the “Hale 
o Hiu” temple, where offerings were made to get fish to come 
iii. 

The trail continues to KAILUA, the main town of Kona, 
where is situated the circuit courthouse, a branch of Hackfeld & 
Co., a sisal mill, a coffee mill and many places of historic in¬ 
terest. 

Right under the wharf is a rock which is pointed out as the 
place where the first missionaries landed in 1820. A short dis¬ 
tance from the landing lies an old, imposing stone church, one 
of the most famous in the Islands, bearing an explanatory mem¬ 
orial tablet. A heiau, near the old palace, furnished the stones 
for its construction. 

Makai of the wharf are extensive remains of an old Hawaiian 
fort, with immensely thick walls, containing holes resembling gun 
embrasures, though these were built before the use of cannon 
was known in Hawaii. Between this and the wharf is pointed 
out the site of the house where the great Kamehameha died in 
1819. A Hawaiian story has it that when he was dying he sent 



KONA FISHERMAN (Photo Gurrey) 




The Island of Hawaii 


57 


for a retainer, asking him where he would conceal his remains. 
The retainer mentioned Kaloko, but the king objected. Another 
retainer, from Koliala, named Hoolulu, was sent for. He named 
the Luahinewai pond, near Kiholo, where a cave mouth opened 
under the water. Kamehameha ordered him to take his body 
there (though it is more commonly said that he was buried near 
Kaloko). When the king died, Hoolulu went to Kailua in a big 
canoe, killing all the fishermen whom he met on the way, except 
one, who somewhat resembled the king. On landing at Kailua 
he killed this man, and by a ruse managed to substitute his 
body for that of the king, which he took to Luahinewai, again 
killing all the men he met, in order to preserve the secret of the 
hiding place. 

The old “palace” occupies a prominent place near the beach. 
On the premises is a small bathing pool, named Kiope, after a 
woman whose body was turned into stone by Pele. The petri¬ 
fied image can be seen under the water makai of the pond. 

South of the palace a road leads tnauka past the old stone 
house occupied by the early missionaries, now a ruin lying in the 
midst of a thicket of cactus and algeroba. A few hundred feet 
mauka thereof is the entrance to the great Laniakea cave, which 
was in ancient days a famous place of refuge. Two entrances 
are visible, the makai one being that to the more important cave. 
One may walk along it for about fifteen minutes, through a pas¬ 
sage which often reaches a considerable height. Only in two 
places is it so narrow that progress is difficult, though the 
Hawaiians tell of an ancient chiefess of such generous propor¬ 
tions that she was stuck by the hips when trying to make her way 
through. The cave runs into a deep subterranean pool of very 
cold water, and further progress can be made only by swimming 
through an aperture in the makai end, when one may enter an 
inner cave, which is said to lead to the sea. 

Some distance from the beach may be seen the great Kuakini 
wall, which was built by the ancients to divide the makai and 
the mauka lands. It is said to have been used as a path, used 
by the chiefs’ runners, as it extends throughout the entire dis¬ 
trict. 

At Kailua lodging can be had at Ako’s and Kaelemakule’s 
and at other houses at varied rates. Meals can be had at Ah 
Lap’s up to $0.50 each and at other restaurants. Kaelemakule 
Jr. owns a quite interesting little museum of Hawaiian curios. 


North of Kailua. 

From the trail running north towards Makalawaena a side trail 
runs makai to the HONOKAHAU village, which consists of 
about a dozen houses by the beach. Here is a large cement 
pan, formerly used for the manufacture of salt from sea water, 
north of which are some rock drawings. Makai thereof, by a 
couple of cocoanut stumps, are the scant remains of a heiau, 
“Hale o Kane.” Directly in front of the bouses are some ex- 



SOUTH KONA SCENE (Photo Gurrey) 





The Island of Hazvaii 


59 


cellent specimens of the papa konane, or checker boards used 
by the ancient Hawaiians. This was quite a complicated game, 
played with black and white pebbles on a board carved on flat 
pahoehoe rocks. 

Still further north lies Ivaloko, a great fishpond, where there 
is only one house. Near here, according to some stories, Kame- 
hameha is buried. 

From the point where the Honokahau trail leaves Kailua a 
poor trail leads makai over the lava to the lighthouse. Hence it 
continues along the beach for a couple of miles. After passing 
several old stone mausoleums, the trail passes an abandoned 
grass house where is a stone wall, the remnants of the heiau 
Keohuulu. Still further north is a cocoanut grove, where there 
were several heiaus, notably that of Palihiole. There were 
several kuulas here, one particularly powerful one, the idol of 
which is still remembered as having been in a fair state of pres¬ 
ervation, only one arm missing, when a Christian priest took it 
from the cave where it was kept. Since then, say the inhabitants, 
the fishing became comparatively poor. In the grove are two 
cocoanut stumps which served as gallows for the first execution 
conducted by hanging in Hawaii. A chief, Kekuaokahaku, was 
the victim. Beyond the main grove are a few isolated trees 
near the edge of the flow. Here was the heiau Pauai, and here 
the trail ends. 


Beach Trail South of Kailua. 

A wide trail leads south from Kailua, passing through a pretty 
stretch of country, near the beach, and through many villages. 
In the past there were many heiaus here. The villages are, in 
order north to south, KAHULUI, KAUMALUMALU (where 
the Judd road begins. See mountains), PAHOEHOE and 
LAALOA. Further south still is KAHALUU, a particularly in¬ 
teresting and possibly the most beautiful village in Kona. On a 
flat makai of the village are the remnants of the Hapaialii heiau, 
built by Kamehameha after the battle of Mokuohai, about 1782. 
Opposite stands the puuhonua Keeku, the ruins measuring 17Gx 
130, also said to he one of Kamehameha’s works. Between them 
are a number of excellent stone pictures, which are washed by 
the sea at high tide. Here Kamalalamalu, a Maui chief, was 
killed, and his picture is carved on a rock, as well as that of a 
dog (or pig) which was placed, together with his body. About 
half a mile mauka is a great burial cave, still in use, where are 
buried hundreds of bodies, including that of a white man, whose 
identity is unknown to this day. A subterranean passage runs 
from mauka of the main road all the way to the sea. It was 
used in ancient days as a place of refuge in war times. It also 
extends mauka of the road. The Nahale beach home, the most 
prominent in the village, stands where formerly stood a stone 
house, which contained the bones of various chiefs, which were 
later on removed. Part of the walls of the Paoumi heiau are 
still standing about l /\ mile mauka of the village. 



NAPOOPOO, KEALAKEKUA BAY 




The Island of Hawaii 


61 


KEAUHOU is the next village south of Kahaluu. It is a 
steamer landing and is of particular interest. It was the birth¬ 
place of Kamehameha the Third, the place of his birth being 
shown as a big rock immediately mauka of the big monkeypod 
stump about 200 feet south of the wharf. The king lived, in 
childhood, where the White house now stands makai of the stone 
mentioned. It was tabu for the people to walk on the cliff 
above the house in the morning, when their shadows would fall 
on the house. 1 hose who wanted to cross, had to swim. Mauka 
of the village is seen the most famous papa holua in the Islands, 
a wide road-like stretch, which was laid with grass steeped in 
kukuinut oil so as to allow the prince and his friends to coast 
down in their sleighs constructed for the purpose. At the 
end of the slide was a lanai, where the prince and his friends 
would don malos and go with their surfboards far out to sea, 
where the surf would carry them right to the prince’s house. 
Here are also the remnants of the heiau Makole-a. A short 
distance further south stood the heiau Puu-o-Kaloa. The 
Hawaiians still look for a dumbbell-shaped cloud to connect it 
with the heiau of Keeku (See Kahaluu), which is a certain sign 
of rain. When it appears it is a good time to plant. In harvest 
time, when improvident ones would beg for food, the proverbial 
answer was “Where were you when the cloud laid its hands on 
Puu-o-Kaloa and Keeku?” South of Keauhou lies KUAMOO, 
famous as the site of the great battle where the rebel chief 
Kekuaokalani, who opposed the abolition of the tabu system, 
fought in 1819, Queen Kaahumanu’s army. He was killed, after 
a sanguinary battle, and with him fell his heroic wife, Manono, 
who had fought by his side. The graves of the slain are still 
to be seen. On the site stands a small village, with a windmill. 
Further south still is the KAINALIU village, whence a trail 
leads mauka to the main road. In 1864 a fanatic, named Kaona, 
who claimed to be a prophet, gathered a large following, and 
at this place he killed the sheriff, Neville, whose grave is here. 
He was captured by a body of troops. The village is quite pretty 
and contains several grass houses. On the south point of the 
bay is the Puu-o-Moha heiau. The trail runs on south to Kaa- 
waloa, where a steep cliff prevents further progress along the 
beach. A good trail leads to the mauka road. 

KAAWALOA is famous in history as the place where Captain 
Cook met his death. A monument marks the spot near which he 
fell. 

Kaawaloa is also noted as a very famous burial place, the pre¬ 
cipitous cliff facing the ocean being honeycombed with caves, 
in which were deposited the bodies of chiefs, on one side, and of 
commoners on the other. In spite of the depredations committed 
recently by visiting sailors, many bodies remain, in a mummified 
state, wrapped in tapa cloth and with implements laid with them. 
One of the caves (unknown) is reported to contain numerous 
bars of gold (according to the natives they looked like bars of 
soap), supposed to have been deposited there from a pirate ship 



KEEI, KONA 





The Island of Hawaii 


63 


which anchored in the bay after a piratical cruise along the South 
American coast. 

NAPOOPOO is the village on the south side of the bay, which 
is a large and very deep one, affording a fine anchorage. It is 
a regular steamer landing, and the village is quite a large and im¬ 
portant one, with the largest store in South Kona. At the north 
end of the village is one of the very finest sand bathing beaches 
on the island. Just mauka thereof is a pond, at the south end of 
which stand the remains of the heiau Hikiau, where Captain 
Cook participated in the ceremonies. Mauka of this is a smaller 
heiau, Helehelekalani, where Opukahaia, the first Hawaiian 
Christian, was trained for the priesthood. 

KEEI village is a pretty spot on the beach, about a mile south 
of Napoopoo. Here are several papa konane (chess boards), 
but most of them are poorly preserved. Directly south thereof, 
on the lava, between this village and Kepu, where there is a cocoa- 
nut grove, was the great battle of MOKUOHAI, in about 1782, 
where a chief, named Kiwalao, was killed after a great fight. 
His remains were taken to Napoopoo and baked (a last indignity) 
at Paokalani, where the oven is still shown. 

HONAUNAU, the next village south, lies by a great bay, but 
the village has become non-important. It is entirely Hawaiian. 
Here stands the famous HALE O KEAWE, the best known of 
Hawaiian places of refuge and temples. It is a solid mass of 
stones ten feet high and 128 x 64 feet in area. The stone en¬ 
closure measures 715 x 404, its walls being 15 feet thick and 12 
feet high. The first cocoanut tree mauka of the heiau is named 
Kaahumanu. The stone terrace mauka thereof was the site of 
the house of the priests, named Hale o Lono. Makai of the tree 
was the Hale o Iveawe proper, where the high chiefs lived. 
Traces can still he seen of a vault under the stone floor, where 
were deposited the bones of high chiefs. Makai thereof was a 
sacred place for prayers, which was very tabu. The place of 
refuge proper, Alealea, is the great structure south. On the 
north side of its wall is Keoua’s Stone, a gigantic, long rock, 
which is said to have been the measure of the stature of that 
famous chief. On the south side is Kaahumanu’s Stone, a large 
rock, set on some smaller ones. It is related that this queen 
was at Kailua, when she heard that her husband, Kamehameha, 
was visiting a woman who lived in the village by the great 
cliff south of Honaunau. She swam from Kailua to Kaawaloa, 
where she rested, then swimming on to Honaunau, where she 
arrived at dark with a single retainer. She hid under this rock, 
and the following morning, when her absence_ was noted, a 
search was made for her, in the course of which 500 houses 
were burned. Finally a dog located the two women under the 
stone, and there was great rejoicing. Behind this rock is a 
stairway leading to the top of the puuhonua. South of the stone 
is a good papa konane. 

A fair trail leads through KEALTA, a pretty village which is 
practically a suburb to HOOKENA, a steamer landing place, 



HOOKENA (Photo Gurrey) 



The Island of Hawaii 


65 


which was once a village of much importance, but which is now 
being abandoned by the population, which is Hawaiian. Near 
the wharf was a place famous in ancient days for the playing of a 
game with pupu shells. In the ereat cliff south of the village are 
several caves, some of them still floored with sand, where tapa 
makers plied their trade. A very poor trail leads makai of this 
cliff to the KALAHIKI village, a small settlement on the south 
side of the bay, which may also be reached by a better trail on 
top of the bluff. Here are traces of a four terrace heiau. Be¬ 
yond this there is no practicable trail leading south. There are 
a few very small fishing villages, Alae, Alika and Papa, which are 
reached by poor trails from the mauka road. It is necessary to 
travel from Plookena mauka to the main road, to Papa, and 
thence by either road or trail to HOOPULOA, the last steam¬ 
ship landing in Kona. This is another village which is dwindling 
in population, only a few Hawaiians and a couple of Chinese 
storekeepers remaining. A fair road leads across a barren a-a 
flow to MILOLII, the largest and best specimen of an exclusively 
Hawaiian village on the Island, which is seldom visited. It is 
splendidly situated by a sand beach, the sea coming right up to 
the yard walls, and is inhabited by a rather large population of 
Hawaiians, who prosper through the fishing which is almost 
phenomenally good. A fair trail leads south to HONOMA- 
LINO, where there are no houses, but a splendid sand beach, 
where turtle abound. The trail leads south, along the beach, 
to the OKOE landing, where there is only one house, and to 
KxA.PUA, used as a cattle shipping point, where there are two 
houses. Just south of this is AHOLE, where there is a per¬ 
fect papa holua, about 400 to 500 feet long, appearing as if it 
had been built but yesterday. A few hundred yards south is 
KAUPO, where there are a few grass houses, and south of this, 
until Kau is reached, there are only a few widely scattered 
houses, used only occasionally for fishing. This region is seldom 
visited. Its chief points of interest are the remains of a heiau, 
mauka of the Catholic church at Milolii, some fine papa konane 
at the south end of the same village, a well preserved kuula 
(still used) where fishermen offer offerings of fruit to insure a 
good catch, by the beach south of Milolii, where the Honomalino 
ranch fence crosses the trail; while all along the trail are smaller 
kuulas, and at many points the foundations of villages, where old 
implements may still be found. 



WAIOHINU HOTEL (Photo Gurrey) 













Kau 


ESERTS separate Kau on the N. E., from Puna, 
and on the N. W. from Kona. At each end is 
an extensive cattle ranch, and the rest of the dis¬ 
trict is divided between two sugar plantations. 
There are two landings, one for each end of the 
district, and most of the section makai of the gov¬ 
ernment road, which runs throughout the district, is barren. 

Leaving the Volcano House (which is near the Kau E. bound¬ 
ary) the road traverses a sandy plain, on the N. side of the cra¬ 
ter, and enters a section of excellent road, which is in the course 
of construction by a gang of prisoners, whose camp lies on the 
mauka side of the road. About five miles from the Volcano 
House the road strikes through about five miles of barren a-a 
flow, which is good road. In about the middle of this section is 
a water tank. A short distance beyond it is a gate and a ranch 
employe’s house, the last habitation, near the road, until Pahala 
is reached. The old Halfway House (Dolway’s) was about thir¬ 
teen miles from the V. H. The ruins of a water tank and a 
couple of cypress trees now only mark the place. This section 
is covered with sparse forest. Westward of this lie grassy plains, 
and about eighteen miles from the V. H. the road passes the main 
gate leading to the KAPAPALA ranch house. PAHALA is the 
first village reached. It lies inland, and is the headquarters for 
the Hawaiian Agricultural Co., the main camp, manager’s resi¬ 
dence and mill being located there, as well as a branch of the 
Volcano Stables Co. and a Chinese hotel (Leo Y. Anima. Rates : 
lodging, 75 cents a day. Meals, 50 cents each). Here begins 
the settled part of Kau, and the road runs through cane fields, 
interrupted by stretches of lava flow, until Waiohinu is reached. 
West of Pahala is also this plantation’s sisal plantation and sisal 
mill, the most extensive on this Island. Mauka of the road is 
seen a fertile cane field growing on a mud flow at a 1200 foot 
elevation. This mud flow was originally a mass of marshy clay 
which, in 1868, was detached by an earthquake from the bluff at 
the head of the valley. In a few minutes it swept down three 
miles in a stream half a mile wide and 30 feet deep. Immedi¬ 
ately afterward a tremendous tidal wave swept the entire coast of 
Kau, and Kilauea emptied itself of its lava through underground 
fissures towards the S. W. 

On the makai side a green gate opens to the road leading 
makai to Punaluu, with its large warehouses and palm trees. 
West thereof is a church on a hill, which may lie easily seen 
from the upper road, and just west of this again is Ninole vil¬ 
lage (for these see “makai trail”). 













WAIOHINU VILLAGE (Photo Gurrey) 







The Island of Hawaii 


69 


Going west again, the road passes through HILEA, a small 
village. 1 he road forks here, the branches meeting on the west 
side of the village. The makai branch is the best. The mauka one 
passes through the village, where there is a large water trough. 
Mauka of Hilea, in the cane field, is the Pun o Makanau heiau. 
According to the kamaainas, a certain chief, who was noted for 
the hard work which he imposed on his people, ordered these 
to bring up to the heiau a big tree, from which he intended to 
fashion an idol. The task angered the people, and they claimed 
that it could not be done, unless they dragged with a rope from 
above, while the punaheles (sub-chiefs, who acted in this case 
as overseers) pushed the tree from below. This was accord¬ 
ingly done, when the people, as they had planned, suddenly let 
go the rope, and the tree rolled back, crushing the punaheles. 
The floor of this heiau was, according to the tradition, covered 
with small stones from the beach of Ninole (see Ninole) which 
were passed from the beach to the heiau from hand to hand by 
a line of men extending from the beach to the heiau. 

Further west lies HONUAPO, near the beach. This is the 
landing for West Kau. Here is also the mill of the Hutchinson 
Plantation Co. and a large plantation camp. Hence the road 
strikes mauka again, passing through NAALEHU, where is the 
office of the plantation, the main store and the manager’s resi¬ 
dence, as well as the old mill, which has now been abandoned. 
Hence a road strikes mauka to the Kaunamano homesteads. 

A couple of miles further west lies WATOPHNU, the main 
town of Kau, an exceedingly pretty village, nestling in a corner 
of the mountain range. It was in the past a very important 
and populous town, but it is falling into decay, and the popula¬ 
tion is dwindling. Hence another trail leads mauka, and east¬ 
ward, to the Kaunamano homesteads. In Waiohinu is situated 
a branch of the Volcano Stables Co., the courthouse, and the 
Becker Hotel (Rates: $3 a day). West of Waiohinu the main 
road passes a number of small cattle raisers’ homes, and finally 
strikes through the vast lands of the great Kahuku ranch to 
Kona. The ranch house is a short distance makai of the 
road, and is the last habitation. The only breaks are a water 
tank (generally containing but little, and bad, water) and, fur¬ 
ther west, an abandoned sheep station. Most of the land is 
barren, and several recent flows are crossed, which support not 
the slightest growth. Two main branches of the 1907 flow cross 
the road. It broke out at an elevation of about 12,000 feet and 
crossed the road after two days, traveling first as pahoehoe at 
a rate at times of seven miles an hour, later, as a-a, in a gigantic 
mass, at about 30 feet an hour. 

Makai of the Road. 

Near PUNxA.LUU, which is the landing for East Kau, where 
a few houses are prettily located among cocoanut trees, are the 
remains of a couple of heiaus, Punaluunui, once a very exten- 



IN WAIOHINU (Photo Gurrey) 





The Island of Hawaii 


71 


sive structure; and Kaneeleele, an important temple, said to 
have been connected in its workings with the great Wahaula 
heiau, in Puna. Hence a trail runs westward, along the beach, 
until, within less than a mile, the beaches of Wailau, Koloa and 
Ninole, with a few houses, all within a few hundred yards, are 
encountered. The black, smooth pebbles found here are famous 
throughout the Islands on account of their supposed power of 
self-propagation. The Hawaiians distinguish between male and 
female stones, the latter having smaller pebbles enclosed in their 
cavities. These smaller ones, according to the persistent belief, 
become detached from the parent stone, and later on grow to 
full size and in their turn give birth to pebbles. Here is also 
a large fresh-water spring. The trail continues westward, past 
some straggling grass houses and the village of Kaalaiki, to 
Honuapo. It crosses two lava flows, and is, even on horseback, 
a rough trail. 

A short distance east of Waiohinu a fair road strikes makai, 
leading to KAALUALU, at one time the landing for West 
Kau, but now consisting merely of a shallow inlet, where is 
the Kaalualu ranch house and a few houses. It is an unpre¬ 
possessing spot, visited mainly on account of the good plover 
shooting. The legend has it that an ancient chief, named Puuo- 
koihala, ordered the people of Kau to bring a big hookupu (of¬ 
fering of food, etc.) to Kapua, on the S. Kona beach. They 
went along the beach, with great bundles of food, but on arriv¬ 
ing at Kapua they were told that the chief had gone in a canoe 
to Kailikii, back towards Kau. They retraced their steps, but 
on arriving there were told that the chief had continued back 
to Waiohukini. Again they went on hack, hut were told to 
follow him to Kalae, and thence again to Kaalualu. Here they 
were told to follow him to Waiohinu, but their patience was 
exhausted. They went swimming, ate the hookupu food, and 
placed stones in its place inside the ti leaf wrapping and the 
calabashes which had contained it. Finally the chief came from 
Waiohinu, and enquired, angrily: “Where is the food?” They 
answered: “Here is your food,” and threw the stone bundles 
at him, killing him. 

A very rough trail leads eastward from Kaalualu towards 
Honuapo, passing a small fishing place, KAMILO, known as 
“Kamilo-paekanaka,” from the word pae, i. e., to, float ashore, 
It derived its name from the fact that the bodies of men who 
had been slain and thrown over the cliffs along the coast, would 
generally float into the inlet by the village. It was also famous 
as the place where love messages from Puna and the country 
in that direction could be picked up, the Puna affinity sending 
his, or her, message in the shape of a hala or made lei en¬ 
closed in a calabash, which would float ashore here. 

From Kaalualu a trail leads to South Point, the most southerly 
point on the Islands. Here is a lighthouse, east of which is the 
“ilio o Lono,” a rock resembling a dog, which is said to be the 
remains of a Kauai chief, who came to Kau, looking for trouble. 



mm 


MAT WEAVERS (Photo Gurrey) 







The Island of Hawaii 


i o 

and who was turned into this rock. Here are also the remains 
of a kuula, a famous fishermen’s temple. Beyond Kaalualu and 
as far as the Kahuku ranch house is a splendid grassy plain. 
This may also be reached by a road leading makai from Waio- 
hinu, on the east side of the court house, which passes through 
the Waiomao homesteads, beyond which a trail strikes makai, 
and back eastwards, to Kaalualu, while the road continues to 
the ranch house, which is prettily situated in a grove of trees. 
Makai of the ranch house is the “Garden of Eden,” a splendid 
garden situated on the bottom and the slopes of a deep pit. It 
was planted by Col. Norris, the eccentric owner of the ranch, 
who died a short time ago, and whose grave is here. It is only 
a short distance from the gate on the main government road. 

Caves. 

Throughout Kau are numerous caves, many of them used as 
burial places in the days when Kau was densely populated. Most 
of them are sealed and thus well hidden, and only few have been 
explored. An excellent example lies about lfA miles east of 
Naalehu and makai of the main road. A hole has been broken 
through the stone wall, which was built up to hide the entrance. 
The cave is a large one and opens into several others, some of 
which have stone pavements. These evidently extend quite a 
distance, and have only been very superficially explored. 

Makai of Naalehu is also a rock bearing carvings, namely two 
indistinct images of men. It is found in the first gully makai 
and east of the village, where the remains of a lava tunnel form 
a natural bridge. Other picture rocks may be seen at a point 
about five miles mauka of Naalehu, but in neither case do they 
seem worth the trouble of going to them, except to persons in¬ 
terested in petrographs. 



PAHOA LUMBER MILL (Photo Moses) 













Puna 


HE DISTRICT of Puna may, for the sake of clear¬ 
ness, be divided into two sections, the Olaa region, 
the north half, and Puna proper. The former con¬ 
sists in the main of the great Olaa sugar plantation, 
and forest which has been partially cleared, while 
some tracts are used for cattle. The middle part 
of the district, with Pahoa as the center, is used for extensive lum¬ 
ber operations. The remainder, Puna proper, is covered by forest 
and old lava flows, most of them covered with vegetation. In 
spite of its exceptional beauty and the fine opportunity it offers 
for seeing the typical Hawaii, which is so rapidly disappearing 
in the march of progress, it is comparatively little known. Still 
it is possible to see the greater part of Puna in one day’s and 
practically all of Puna in two days’ autoing, while the Hilo 
R. R. Co. trains pass through the main portions. The roads 
are almost all excellent. 

The main road into Puna is a continuation of the Volcano 
road which runs from Hilo town, the Puna boundary being 
about six miles out from Hilo. Hence an excellent road passes 
through forest and, further south, through cane, to Nine Miles, 
Olaa, the largest plantation camp on the Island. Near the boun¬ 
dary line may be seen clearings where awa is planted. Just 
north of the camp a road leads makai to the Shipman ranch 
headquarters at the beach. It is about four miles long, good 
and very pretty, passing through cane and then puhala forest. 
Right by the ocean is a large pond with very cold water. Small 
craft may effect a landing here in good weather. 

From the Nine Miles village another road leads makai to the 
great Olaa mill and the railway depot. The main road strikes 
west towards the Volcano and Kau (this being the belt road 
proper. See Volcano) while the road into Puna proper turns 
south. It passes through cane and past the homes of the prin¬ 
cipal plantation officers, and continues over an ancient lava flow, 
covered with stunted vegetation and used for cattle. 

Tt leads to Pahoa, a village which has sprung into prominence 
since it became the main camp of a lumber company which has 
a large mill here, where ohia (a hardwood used for railroad 
ties, flooring, shingles, tools and many similar purposes) and koa 
(Hawaiian mahogany, a wood used for furniture and fine wood 
work) is milled in large quantities. 

At Pahoa the main road forks. One branch leads south, 
through an exceptionally beautiful and well preserved section 
of forest with great trees and a riotous tangle of vines and un- 














KALAPANA, PUNA (Photo E. Moses) 













The Island of Hawaii 


77 


dergrowth. It passes the plantation of the Pacific Development 
Co., which extends down to the sea, and which has planted rub¬ 
ber and cane. Here is the last telephone. Next to it come the 
awa plantations of Captain Eldarts, a veteran settler, and sev¬ 
eral Hawaiians. A couple of miles further south a road leads 
to the right, extending about four miles in a westerly direction 
to some old homesteads. It was originally the intention to ex¬ 
tend this road to the beach, but the plan was abandoned when 
the coffee boom ended. Emerging from the forest the main 
road passes through a comparatively recent lava flow of small 
width, where may be seen some structures, resembling small huts, 
which are, however, burying places. Such may be seen through 
all the arid regions. It being practically impossible to dig through 
the rock, the dead are placed in piles of rock, and roofs are 
erected over these. As the road slopes towards the beach, a 
very fine view is afforded. At the beach the road enters first 
the village of KAIMU, exclusively Hawaiian, with a large grove 
of cocoanut trees surrounding a fine semi-circular sand beach. 
Care should be exercised in bathing on account of the under¬ 
tow. Less than a mile further on, westwards, lies the village 
of KALAPANA, one of the largest Hawaiian villages in the 
Islands. There are no white inhabitants, and only a couple of 
Chinese stores. Here is the headquarters for a couple of stages, 
which make irregular trips to Pahoa (Rate: 75 cents a pas¬ 
senger one way). 

KALAPANA still supports quite a large population, and is a 
very pretty village, having, like all the Puna coast villages, a 
fine growth of cocoanuts, puhala and monkeypod trees. The 
landing is so rough that it is used now only for canoes. Near 
the bluff, which rises from the sea at the landing are the niu 
moe (sleeping cocoanuts). These were bent, when young, by 
visiting chiefs, the tree bearing afterwards the name of the chief 
who had bent it. On this bluff, named Puu o Hakuma, is a very 
interesting and easily accessible cave, which was used in ancient 
days as a place of refuge in war times. Makai of the last house 
in the village, at the foot of the bluff, is a cement mausoleum, 
and about a hundred feet west thereof is a path to the top of 
the bluff. A couple of hundred yards east of the top of this 
trail at about the middle of the flat top of the ridge, are some 
stone fences, among which can be located the cave entrance, 
a hole with stone slab sides, through which one must crawl, 
down a narrow winding passage, to the main chamber. The 
passage was purposely made narrow, so as to make it impossible 
for more than one man to enter at a time, and winding to pre¬ 
vent the throwing of spears into the chamber. The main cham¬ 
ber is quite large, and partly built up with slabs. From the side 
opposite the entrance another passage leads several hundred feet 
to a wide kind of balcony in the cliff, directly above the breakers. 
This passage is quite large and easily traversed. It is impossible to 
make the trip without candles or other artificial light. At 
Kalapana is also the remnant of the Niukukahi heiau, in a dense 



KAIMU, PUNA (Photo E. Moses) 








The Island of Hawaii 


79 


undergrowth. It was a very noted temple for the god Kuahailo. 

At Kalapana the road proper ends, but a trail leads along the 
coast, though some distance from it, for about eight miles, when 
it strikes mauka to the Volcano. It passes through a beautiful 
piece of country to the KAHAUALEA village, where are located 
a ranch and a Hawaiian village. Here is the PUNALUU pond, 
a mineral water deposit in a lava crack, a famous bathing place, 
very picturesquely located. A bit further on, about three miles 
from Kalapana, is the famous WAHAULA heiau, the last place 
where idolatry was extensively practiced. 

Wahaula Heiau. 

This heiau is one of the best preserved and most interesting 
in the Islands. It is situated on a bluff rising sheer above the 
sea, amid a lauhala and cocoanut grove. One leaves the trail so 
as to strike about the middle of this grove. The heiau is said 
to have been built by Paao, the famous high priest (see Mookini, 
Kohala) in the eleventh century, but to have been rebuilt later 
on. It is about 132x72 feet in extent, but is in addition to this 
surrounded by a larger enclosure, where the common people 
might stay. The main portion was the place of the priests, and 
was entirely covered by an immense grass house, divided into 
several rooms. The main entrance is in the middle of the makai 
wall, with a side entrance east thereof. In the west end is a 
raised dais of stones, with two semicircular indentations, the 
seat of the priests. Through the middle runs a stone path, on 
which were placed the bodies of the victims, after they had 
been sacrificed on the great flat stone which occupies a con¬ 
spicuous place near the northeast corner. The Hawaiians tell the 
following story of the destruction of this heiau house: A great 
wrestler lived near it. It was his habit to kill travelers who 
might come alone to visit the heiau. A girl lived in a cave in 
the bluff where the trail strikes mauka towards Kail. She would 
signal to him when strangers came along, and to her he would 
bring the bodies of his victims, whereupon she ate them (This 
in spite of the well known fact that the Hawaiians were never 
cannibals). A Kona chief had a friend who had been sacrificed 
in the heiau. This friend’s spirit appeared before the Kona man 
and bade him go to the heiau to recover his bones. In spite of 
warnings, the chief set out alone, but first he anointed his body 
with slippery kukuinut juice. By this means he was able to 
withstand the attack of the wrestler, whom he finally killed. 
He then entered the heiau in the day, when the akuas (spirits) 
were absent. He hid himself under the bones of his friend. 
When the akuas returned that evening, they voiced their sus¬ 
picion that there was a human in the heiau. The spirit of the 
friend reassured them that such was not the case, and they 
went to sleep. At midnight the Kona man crowed like a rooster, 
and the akuas left, thinking it was morning. The Kona man 
then took his friend's bones and departed, but first he set fire to 
the grass house. 



OPIHIKAO, PUNA (Photo Bowman) 






The Island of Hawaii 


81 


The heiau was named Wahaula, “red mouth,” as this was a 
feature of the idols it contained. The tabu thereof was fire, and 
any man on whom fell the shadow of the smoke of the temple 
fires, was sacrificed. 

Near this heiau, as in many other places in Puna, may be 
seen regular rows of holes in the a-a, which are used for the 
cultivation of sweet potatoes, which, in spite of the absolute 
lack of any vestige of visible soil, send their roots so far under 
the lava that they find nourishment. 

Beyond the heiau, on the makai side of the trail, is pointed 
out the footprint of Niheu, a demi-god, as well as the mark 
of an arrow which he shot at another demi-god who came to 
fight him. Further west, makai of the place where the trail 
turns mauka, is KAMOAMOA, where the ranch driving pens 
are. Here are two wells with fair water, and also a fine 
natural arch by the sea. Here are also a few interesting rock 
carvings. The most easily found of these is about a hundred 
yards from the paddock extension towards Kalapana, and may 
l 3 e located by following the line of this extension’s makai wall 
in an easterly direction. 

The trail is straight, with a bad grade, but paved, until it has 
reached well up the bluff, where it passes the Pea house, the 
last habitation before the Crater Hotel is reached. From Pea’s 
it is a good eight miles to the Makaopuhi crater (See Volcano). 
The trail is narrow, passes through splendid forest, and is, though 
seldom used, quite easily followed. 

Pahoa-Kapoho and Beach Trails. 

From Pahoa an excellent road leads in an easterly direction. 
A few miles from Pahoa it forks, the northerly fork leading to 
Kapoho and the southerly to Pohoiki. Another road connects 
Pohoiki and Kapoho, the three roads forming a triangle. This 
region is particularly interesting on account of the number of 
old craters which it passes. As a matter of fact, the entire region 
is covered with them, extending in an irregular line from Ka¬ 
poho to Kilauea. The most famous of these is Waiapele, Pele’s 
first residence in Hawaii. Here the goddess lived until she was 
flooded out by the demi-god Kaneapua, when she moved to the 
three deep craters mauka of the branch road to Kapoho. She 
dug down into these until she “could hear the sound of the 
water,” when she moved further mauka. She continued to do 
so, until she found a residence which pleased her at Kilauea. 
East of the KAPOHO depot is a great ring of five craters, con¬ 
taining the famous “Green Lake,” to which a road leads. It is 
noted for its beauty and peculiar coloring. At the Lyman house, 
which this road passes, is a stone, which was according to the 
legend, a pet pig, which Pele turned into stone, as it was the 
property of a man, whom she was pursuing. Facing the depot is 
a hill of cinders, whence the railroad secures all its ballast. 
North thereof is the quarry whence was taken the rock for the 



HOT SPRINGS, PUNA (Photo Bowman) 




The Island of Hawaii 


83 


Hilo breakwater. Hast of it rises a hill, covered with cane and 
crowned by some cocoanut trees, on which are the scant rem¬ 
nants of the heiau Kukii. Only the foundation is left. The rest 
of the stone slabs from which it was built, were taken, some to 
the Lyman house, where they were used for paving, and others 
to Honolulu, where they are used for similar purposes at the 
palace, the Kamehameha schools and other places. One story 
has it that King Ivalakaua had a number of these slabs rolled 
off the hill to show his superiority to the tabu. A trail leads 
to the top of this hill. At the foot of this hill, on the north 
side, is the famous “Hot Springs,” a pool of crystal-clear, tepid 
mineral water, contained in a deep volcanic crack, which is a 
favorite bathing place. It is beautifully situated amid a lux¬ 
urious growth, and is reached by a good trail. 

Where the road from the station runs into the road to Pohoiki 
at a right angle, a road continues northward through KOAE, a 
particularly pretty Hawaiian village, and extends for about a 
mile, when it continues as a good trail on to the beach, where, 
beyond some towering sand hills, lies Honolulu, which consists 
of only a couple of huts. Hence a trail runs along the coast to 
the Shipman ranch house, below Olaa Mill. It passes a few huts, 
called by courtesy the villages of Waiakahiula and Makuu. 
Trails lead from these to Pahoa. 

Trails lead from Ivapoho to the beach, at the nearest point 
only about miles distant, and to Cape KUMUKAITI, in the 
past a place which chiefs visiting Puna generally went to. Here 
they would erect stone hills, bearing their names, but almost all 
of these, except the most recent ones, bearing the names of 
Queen Liliuokalani and a few others, have been destroyed by 
tidal waves. A good road leads to POHOIKI, once the site of 
a coffee mill and a prosperous village, but now almost deserted. 
Hence a good and exceedingly pretty road leads close to the 
sea to the OPIHIKAO village. Here is a hot spring in a cave, 
a few hundred feet above the church. The road leads on to 
KAMAILE, another pretty village, where is shown a hollow, 
where Kaneapua conquered Pele. From this point, along the 
beach to within a short distance of Kaimu, at present is only a 
trail, but a good road is under construction, and will have been 
completed within a short time of this writing. It will then be pos¬ 
sible to go by auto all the way from Pohoiki to Kaimu, and the 
triangular trip from Pahoa to Kapoho and Pohoiki, thence to 
Kaimu and Kalapana and thence back direct to Pahoa, will 
afford one of the very finest auto excursions in the Islands. Be¬ 
tween Kamaile and Kaimu is only one small village, KEHENA 
(Gehennah), situated on a bluff high above the sea. These vil¬ 
lages are connected by trails with the inland village of KAUE- 
LEAU, where there is a saw mill. The inland section about 
Kapoho and, to some extent, near Kaueleau, is planted in came. 

The road which runs, as a belt road section, from Nine Miles, 
Olaa, to the Volcano House, is described in the Volcano chapter. 



WAILOA RIVER, HILO 




Transportation 

Inter-Island Steam Navigation Co. 

HIS company’s fleet gives Hawaii commodious, 
speedy and frequent connection with Oahu and 
Maui, as well as connecting the various Hawaii 
ports. The Manna Ivea, the flagship, is 252 feet 
long, 1,566 tons gross register, 2,400 horsepower 
engines, has 52 staterooms with electric fans, nearly 
all on the upper deck, a fine promenade deck and all modern 
conveniences. She leaves Honolulu Wednesday at 10 a. m., 
touches Lahaina and McGregor’s Landing on Maui, then Ka- 
waihae, Mahukona and Laupahoehoe, reaching Hilo Thursday 
at about 7 a. m. The trip through the channels, passing the 
Islands of Molokai, Lanai and Maui, is beautiful and interesting, 
and the passage along the rugged Hamakua coast is famous. 
The vessel returns on the same route Friday at 10 a. m. from 
Hilo, reaching Honolulu Saturday at about 7 a. m. The Mauna 
Kea also makes a weekly trip from Honolulu to Hilo and 
back, leaving Honolulu Saturday at 3 p. m., reaching Hilo Sun¬ 
day at about 8 a. m., and leaves Hilo Monday at 4 p. m., reach¬ 
ing Honolulu Tuesday morning. 

The KILAUEA is almost a sister ship of the Mauna Kea, but 
has her fine dining saloon on deck. She leaves Honolulu every 
ten days, alternately Tuesdays and Fridays, touches Lahaina and 
McGregor’s Landing (on certain trips Mahukona and Kawaihae), 
Kailua, Keauhou, Napoopoo (Kealakekua), Hookena, Hoopuloa, 
Honuapo and Punaluu. Stops along the Kona coast are long 
enough to permit oassengers to disembark at one end of the 
district and ride overland through it, boarding the steamer at 
the other end. The trip along the cocoanut-clad coast is very 
beautiful and almost always perfectly smooth. 

Rates from Honolulu to Hawaii ports: ' Mahukona, Kawai¬ 
hae, Kailua, Keauhou, Kukuihaele, Honokaa, Paauhau, $10. 
To Napoopoo, Hookena, Hoopuloa, $11. Laupahoehoe and Hilo, 
$12.50. Punaluu and Honuapo, $13. Special Volcano excursion 
rates (with hotel and land transportation). Hilo to Laupahoe¬ 
hoe $2.50; to Kawaihae $5; to Kona ports $10. Other steamers: 
Likelike and Maui occasionally to various ports. 










86 


The Island of Hawaii 

The Matson Navigation Company. 

Furnishes direct transportation between Hilo and the main¬ 
land. Two vessels of its fleet call at Hilo regularly, namely 
the WILHELMINA, the flagship, which calls at Honolulu first; 
and the ENTERPRISE, which plies only between Hilo and San 
Francisco. The Wilhelmina sails from San Francisco to Hono¬ 
lulu direct, remains there about two days, continues to Hilo, 
where she generally remains three days, giving ample time to 
visit the Volcano. She then returns to Honolulu, remaining 
there about two days, and then returns to San Francisco, mak¬ 
ing the entire round trip every four weeks. This vessel has 
accommodations for 150 first-class passengers. She is one of 
the most luxuriously appointed vessels on the Pacific ocean trade. 
The Wilhelmina’s promenade deck is over 300 feet long, with 
ample space for recreation and deck games. Every stateroom 
has direct light and ventilation. The vessel contains a barber¬ 
shop, hospital, smoking-room, numerous baths with hot and cold 
showers, wireless, sub-marine signal apparatus, etc. She is fitted 
with bilge keels to insure steadiness. The Wilhelmina’s dis¬ 
placement is 13,250 tons; register 6,600; length 451 feet; beam 
54 feet. The Wilhelmina fares from San Francisco to Hilo are 
as follows: Main deck inner rooms, $75, round trip $130; main 
deck outer rooms, $85, round trip $150; promenade deck and 
upper bridge deck, all rooms, $95, round trip $170; walnut rooms, 
promenade deck or bridge deck, $110 a person, no reduction for 
round trip. $25 additional for private bathroom. Servants, when 
accompanying employer, $60. Steerage, $35. The Wilhelmina 
is the only trans-Pacific steamship which calls at Hilo, thus pro¬ 
viding the only direct service to the Volcano. The charge for 
automobiles from San Francisco to Hilo is $3.50 a ton of 40 
cubic feet, and amounts to about $35 for the ordinary touring 
car. 

The ENTERPRISE carries passengers between Hilo and San 
Francisco only. She has accommodations for 26 cabin passen¬ 
gers, is fitted with wireless and has good accommodations. She 
calls at Hilo about once a month. The passenger rates are: 
First class, $60; steerage, $30. 

The Wihelmina carries passengers, also, between Honolulu 
and Hilo. Rate: First class, for this trip alone, $17. 


The Island of Hawaii 


87 


The Hilo Railroad Company 

Is the pioneer in the field of Standard gauge railroads in the 
Islands, and has today approximately 90 miles of line in opera¬ 
tion. 

From Hilo the line runs southward towards the mountain of 
Manna Loa. the terminus being Glenwood, situated at an eleva¬ 
tion of about 2,300 feet above sea level. The ride to Glenwood 
is of surpassing beauty. The train passes through miles of vir¬ 
gin forest, then through the vast cane fields of the Olaa Sugar 
Company’s plantation, again entering a noble forest before reach¬ 
ing the end of the road. Glenwood is 25.3 miles from Hilo and 
the first-class fare is but $1.15. Proportionately low rates are 
charged for the intermediate stations. At Glenwood station con¬ 
nection is made with the Volcano House Auto-Bus Service, which 
operates between that point and the Volcano House Hotel en 
route. Special round trip rates from Hilo to the Volcano House 
are now in force, and tourists are taken care of, as far as trans¬ 
portation is concerned, for $5, including a trip from the Volcano 
House to the Crater. 

From Olaa station, eight miles from Hilo on the line to Glen¬ 
wood, the track branches off for Kaueleau, Ivapoho and Pahoa. 
The line is laid over an ancient lava flow, partially forested, to 
Pahoa, 23 miles from Hilo, where is situated the lumber mill 
of the Pahoa Lumber Co. At Kapoho, 26 miles from Hilo, are 
the Green Lake, the Hot Springs, the Cinder Cone, numerous 
extinct craters and many other points of interest specially re¬ 
ferred to under the heading of “Puna.” Kaueleau is seven miles 
further on, and this portion of the ride on the Puna branch is 
perhaps the most interesting. Here is also an extensive lumber 
mill. The rates on this line are also low, being as follows: 
From Hilo to Kaueleau, $1.40 each way; to Kapoho, $1 each way, 
and to Pahoa, $0.90 each way. 

Exceptionally fine scenery awaits the tourist on the Hakalau 
and Paauilo extension. This stretches northward from Hilo to 
Paauilo, 33.67 miles from Hilo. Beyond doubt this route is one 
of the finest Scenic Highways in the world, and the railroad 
offers unrivaled facilities for viewing this portion of the coun¬ 
try. The train runs along the edge of the bluffs which face the 
Pacific; through rich plantation land; over deep gulches, covered 
with rich vegetation, and spanned by numerous steel viaducts 
which have been erected at enormous cost; through extensive 
cuts and over deep fills. From the commencement of the ride 
to its termination there is always something entrancing to be 
seen —some glimpses of nature’s glorious handiwork. From a 
number of the stations which dot the line at frequent intervals, 
side trips can be made into the surrounding country, trips which 
will more than repay the tourist. From Onomea a short trail 
leads to the Onomea Arch and the Hawaiian settlement; from 
Honomu the famous Akaka Falls can be reached with the mini¬ 
mum of exertion; while at Laupahoehoe there is much of his- 


88 


7 he Island of Hawaii 


toric interest to awaken in the tourist the desire to see more 
of this wonderful country. 

The fares and timetable can be obtained at any of the stations 
and are also to be seen at the Hilo Hotel and in many of the 
principal business houses. A telephone message to the Superin¬ 
tendent’s office (Tel. 237) will meet with a ready and courteous 
response. Officials of the company meet every arriving steamer 
and as they are in uniform, they are easily singled out. 1 hey 
are ever ready to provide tourists with all the information which 
lies within their power. 

The Volcano Stables & Transportation Co. 

Is by far the most comprehensive institution of its kind in the 
entire group. Its service includes all kinds of livery, automo¬ 
biles of all sizes, stages, vehicles, horses, etc. Besides main¬ 
taining at its Hilo headquarters a large garage, capable of hand¬ 
ling all kinds of repair work, it holds the agency for the White 
and Ford autos. It has the largest stock of auto goods, material 
and parts in the Islands. 

The Volcano Stables Co. also maintain branch stations at 
Hakalau, Laupahoehoe, Honokaa, Waimea, Kawaihae, Glenwood, 
the Volcano House, Pahala, Honuapo and Waiohinu. These not 
only furnish livery of all kinds, and serve as relay stations for 
the extensive stage service conducted by the concern, but also 
carry a full line of gasoline, oils, and the auto supplies most 
generally needed. 

Stage lines are operated on the route from Laupahoehoe to 
Kawaihae, to the north, and, on the other side, from Glenwood 
to Waiohinu and Honuapo. Furthermore, the Volcano Stables 
are always prepared to take passengers to any point on the 
Island, and its extensive equipment makes it possible for it to 
guarantee the safest and most rapid transportation possible under 
all circumstances. It is prepared even to make special arrange¬ 
ments to take passengers off the ordinary routes of travel, as, 
for instance, up the mountains (See Mountains). 

Owing to the constantly changing rates, which are becoming 
cheaper as the rapid improvement of the roads makes travel less 
expensive, it is not practicable to give rates, but it may be 
stated, without exaggeration, that the auto rates are as cheap 
as those anywhere on the mainland. The following rates may, 
however, be mentioned : 

VOLCANO—Auto trip, includes drive to main points about 
Hilo, crater, tree moulds, fern forest, and return, $5 a person. 
When a longer trip is desired, giving more time in which to 
inspect the various interesting places, including Kilauea-iki, Goat 
Crater, Seven Craters, etc., rates are: Second day, $7 a person; 
third day, $9 a person. 

PUNA—Auto trips, to Olaa, Pahoa, Pohoiki, Opihikao and 
Kapoho (one trip), $12.50 a person. To Olaa, Pahoa, Kaimu 
and Kalapana (one trip), $12.50 a person. 


The Island of Hawaii 


89 


HILO-KAILUA (occasional)—By auto, connecting with S. S. 
Kilauea, through Kona, Kau, via Volcano, either way $20, round 
trip $30. 

Cocoanut Island, Breakwater and Lokoaka, hack, $1.50 a per¬ 
son. 

Rainbow Falls, hack, 75 cents. Onomea Arch, hack, $2. Kau- 
mana Caves, hack, $1.50. 

AUTO RATES—Seven-passenger car, each person, first hour, 
$5 ; succeeding hours, $4. Five-passenger car, each person, first 
hour $4; succeeding hours, $3. 

Horses and Vehicles—Saddle horses, $2 to $3 a day according 
to distance. Buggies $3.50 to $5 a day. Team and buggy $5 to 
$7 a day. Surreys $7 to $10 a day. Drivers without extra charge. 

Hack Rates. 

City limits are: Mahiula bridge on north ; flume across Kau- 
mana road Y mile from courthouse, upper end of cemetery on 
south; Waiakea school and Reed’s Bay on east. Trips not ex¬ 
ceeding y 2 mile inside limits 1 or 2 passengers, 25 cents. Ex¬ 
ceeding 1 mile, not over 2, 1 or 2 passengers, 50 cents. Between 
y 2 and 1 mile, each passenger 25 cents. 

Continuous driving by hour: 1 passenger, $1.50; 2 passen¬ 
gers, $2; 3 passengers, $2.50; 4 passengers, $3. Driving where at 
least half time is taken up in detention, per hour: 1 passenger, 
$1 ; 2 passengers, $1.50; 3 passengers, $2; 4 passengers, $2.50. 
Double rates between lip. m. and 5 a. m. 


The City Stables. 

Felix Brughelli, proprietor, has its main place of business on 
Volcano street, between Richardson and Ponohawai streets, but 
also operates a hackstand, with reliable drivers, located on the 
north side of the courthouse square. The stables are prepared 
to furnish, besides hacks, livery of all kinds, such as buggies, 
wagonettes and saddle horses. It also engages in heavy team¬ 
ing, and deals in wood, hay, grain, and various mill stuffs. Hack 
telephone 126. Stables telephone 125. 


The Von Hamm-Young Co/s 

Hilo Branch occupies a fine structure, as good or better than 
any in Honolulu. Its leading cars are the Packard and the 
Cadillac, but it also holds the agencies for the Stevens-Duryea, 
Pope-Hartford, Buick, Hupmobile, Peerless and other cars. All 
kinds of repairs are done and complete lists of parts and sup¬ 
plies kept on hand. Being in close touch with the Honolulu 
house, which has handled 75 per cent of the Island auto busi¬ 
ness, it is particularly well equipped to give absolute satisfaction. 


Some Hilo Business Houses 


The Hilo Mercantile Co., Ltd. 

AS incorporated under the laws of the Republic of 
Hawaii on February 23, 1897, having taken over 
the business of Mr. C. E. Richardson, who started 
a wholesale and retail store in Hilo in 1884. From 
what was a small establishment in 1897 the Hilo 
Mercantile Co. has grown until it is now one of the strongest 
merchandising business houses on the Island of Hawaii. The 
increase of its business has been along the lines of a steady and 
nominal development, each year showing an increase in business 
over that of the previous year. 

This corporation has through its many branches of activity 
become an important factor in the development of the town. 
Its manifold departments handle everything used in the building 
line, and the company itself handles general building contracting 
as well. An important feature is its lumber business. It im¬ 
ports its lumber by the ship load in specially chartered vessels, 
and has an extensive stock in its large yards. Particular care 
is taken of the lumber, every stick thereof being sheltered in 
five great sheds, which have a total capacity of over three mil¬ 
lion feet. In connection with this branch of the business the 
company also operates a well equipped planing mill. In the 
building line may also be included its plumbing and paints de¬ 
partments, as well as its particularly good hardware and steel 
line, which, besides building and general hardware, makes a 
specialty of tools of all descriptions. 

In addition to the above, the Hilo Mercantile Co. handles a 
modern general merchandise store, including very complete lines 
of groceries, glass and crockery, sugar plantation supplies, etc., 
etc. The company’s extensive business connections on the main¬ 
land enable it to be constantly right up-to-date. The main place 
of business and offices are on Front street, with the lumber yards 
and nine additional warehouses occupied by its goods being 
grouped in the vicinity. 

J 







The Island of Hawaii 


91 


The First Bank of Hilo. 

This bank is the oldest financial institution on the island. Its 
board of directors numbers amongst its members the most sub¬ 
stantial men of the city. The hank has correspondents in all 
parts of the world, and, with the general branches of a banking 
business, it is prepared to meet the needs of travelers and to 
accommodate them in every way. It has branches at Honokaa, 
Kohala and Kona. 

The history of the bank has been so intimately connected with 
that of Hilo, that the statement of its development furnishes a 
reliable story of the growth of the town. It is told by the fol- 



FIRST BANK OF HILO 


lowing figures, showing the amount of deposits at the end of 
each year: 

Dec. 31, 1901, $163,393.84; Dec. 31, 1902, $208,675.33; Dec. 31, 
1903, $186,813.17; Dec. 31, 1904, $163,880.74; Dec. 31, 1905, $249,- 
970.08; Dec. 31, 1906, $291,402.75; Dec. 31, 1907, $397,067.01; Dec. 
31, 1908, $389,851.45; Dec. 31, 1909, $638,786.68; Dec. 31, 1910, 
$809,759.90; Dec. 31, 1911, $1,125,905.93. The last statement. 
Dec. 31, 1912, showed deposits at $1,316,353.16. 









92 


The Island of Hawaii 

Hackfeld & Co., Ltd. 


Hilo branch is one of the largest establishments on the Island. 
In its fifteen years of existence it has developed to extensive 
proportions. Besides conducting a general wholesale and liquor 
business, the firm operates in Hilo a large lumber yard, with a 
planing mill, with which it includes general contracting. It also 
makes furniture and conducts a plumbing department. It is 
agent for marine and fire insurance. 

On January 1, 1911, the Hackfeld & Co. branch moved into 
the hugest and finest business block in Hilo, a two-story rein¬ 
forced concrete structure, 180 feet long by 90 feet wide. It is 
one of the finest equipped buildings in the Islands, the office 
floors being made entirely of ohia, while the furniture, steps, 
panels, room and office partitions are of koa. 

Hackfeld & Co., Ltch, also have branch stores at Kailua and 
Napoopoo, in the Kona district. 


The First Trust Co. of Hilo 

Is a comparatively new institution, which has prospered in its 
field. I he company does an extensive business in stocks and 
bonds, and is of particular value to the traveling man of affairs, 
as it receives the latest stock reports from San Francisco and 
New \oik, as well as the Honolulu stock market, being kept 
in touch by daily wireless service with the most important move¬ 
ments of the stock and bond market. It maintains branches in 
the various districts of the Island, and is thus in a position to 
be particularly well informed in the matter of available business 
opportunities, small farms, lands and real estate of every de¬ 
scription. The company is ever ready to provide information 
to visitors and others interested in Hawaii investments. The 
offices of the company contain the most modern equipment, in¬ 
cluding a safety deposit vault, with individual boxes to rent. 

The statement of business on Dec. 31, 1912, showed its resources 
at $91,817.55. 



7 he Island of Hawaii 

Bishop & Co., Ltd. 


93 


Office in Hilo on Waianuenue street, transacts a general bank¬ 
ing and exchange business. In this it includes the issuing of 
commercial and travelers’ letters of credit, issued on the Bank 
of California and on The London Joint Stock Bank, Ltd., of 
London. 

Interest is allowed on time deposits at the following rates : 

Three months, 3 per cent per annum. 

Six months, 3 l / 2 per cent per annum. 

Twelve months, 4 per cent per annum. 

Interest is allowed at the rate of 4 per cent per annum on 
savings bank deposits. 

Safe deposit boxes are for rent at a reasonable rate. 

The Hilo office also represents the Bishop Trust Co., Ltd., of 
Honolulu. 


The Honolulu Iron Works Co. 

Has just established a branch plant in Hilo, exceptionally ad¬ 
vantageously located near the entrance of the Wailoa River to the 
bay. This firm has been, and is, one of the most prominent 
factors in the development of the sugar manufacturing industry, 
and has installed a majority of the machinery in the Hawaiian 
sugar factories, as well as having erected extensive mills in the 
Philippines, Formosa, Louisiana, Mexico, Cuba and Porto Rico. 
The Hilo plant is furnished with a complete and modern equip¬ 
ment of the most approved machine tools, etc., and the build¬ 
ings are of steel structural material, provided with electric travel¬ 
ing cranes, and consist of a machine shop, iron and brass foun¬ 
dry, blacksmith, pattern and carpenter shops. It is also provided 
with warehouses and a sales department for merchandise, such 
as engineering supplies, oils, pipes, heavy hardware, etc. Ships 
calling at the port of Hilo thus have at their disposal all the 
advantages offered by a large and modern engineering works. 



94 


The Island of Hawaii 

Davies & Company, Ltd. 


Is a branch of the great Honolulu firm of that name, the Hilo 
department having been maintained for about a score of years. 
It conducts essentially a wholesale business, carrying supplies of 
practically all kinds. The insurance department holds the agen¬ 
cies of the London Guarantee and Accident Co., Ltd., The North¬ 
ern Assurance Co., The British and Foreign Marine Insurance 
Co., and the Law, Union and Rock Co. Its shipping department 
acts as agents for the Canadian-Australian Steamship Co., and 
for the American-Hawaiian Steamship Co/s Hilo business. 
Davies & Co. are also the agents for the following sugar plan¬ 
tations on the Island of Hawaii: Waiakea Mill Co., Ltcl, Laupa- 
hoehoe Sugar Co., Kaiwiki Sugar Co., Kukaiau Plantation Co., 
Hamakua Mill Co., all of which are on the windward coast of 
the Island; and the Niulii Plantation, Union Mill Co., Halawa 
Plantation, Ltd., all these three being on Kohala; as well as for 
the Humuula Sheep Station Co. 


The Hilo Hotel 

Was completely renovated and equipped a few years ago to 
meet the demands of the constantly increasing tourist traffic, 
and has given Hilo the ability to care for its visitors better than 
can most towns of a much larger size on the mainland. The 
hotel, which consists of a large two-story main building, with 
several rows of comfortable cottages, all having separate baths, 
and connected with the main structure by spacious verandas, 
is built especially to provide comfort in a tropical climate, and is 
situated in the midst of spacious and beautiful grounds, including 
an excellent tennis court. The dining hall is large and cool, and 
a great refrigerating plant enables the hotel to provide, besides 
the dainties of the tropics, a wide selection of imported meats, 
fish, game, fruit, etc. It is run in connection with the Volcano 
House and excursion tickets for the Volcano trip may be used at 
either hotel. Rates: $5 a day, $28 a week, $75 a month and up¬ 
ward. 



The Island of Hawaii 

The Volcano House 


Q5 


Enjoys a unique position on the rim of the crater of Kilauea, 
affording a splendid view of the crater as well as of the moun¬ 
tains of Manna Kea and Mauna Loa. The elevation is almost 
4,000 feet, and the climate healthful and particularly invigorating. 
This establishment furnishes the Volcano visitor with every 
comfort, enabling him to view the great phenomenon without suf¬ 
fering the slightest discomfort. The great main building, with 
its famous great fire places, and the many cottages offer ample 
accommodations, and the table is excellent. Besides the ordinary 
bath facilities, the natural sulphur steam baths offer a refreshing 
and healthful novelty. The hotel operates a livery and auto ser¬ 
vice, affording its guests means of transportation to the pit, the 
great dead craters, fern forests, koa forest and other attractions. 
Guides, equipment and everything else needed are constantly on 
hand, *and every assistance offered. Rates: $5 a day, $24.50 a 
week. Cottages extra. 


The Hilo Electric Light Co., Ltd. 

W as organized in 1900. It has a hydro-electric plant, deriving 
its power from the Wailuku river, about one-third mile above 
Rainbow Falls, and has sufficient available natural power to 
double its capacity, which is about 1000 k. w., or about 1400 
horsepower. It manufactures ice, operates a cold storage plant, 
sells light and power, does general electric contracting and deals 
in all kinds of electric goods, lighting supplies, motors, genera¬ 
tors, etc. 


J. D. Kennedy, Watchmaker and Jeweler 

Has been doing business in Hilo since 1894 and now handles 
practically all of the trade in his line on the Island. He carries 
a large and particularly well selected stock of diamonds and 
other precious and semi-precious stones, jewelry, cut glass, etc. 
Also handles the leading makes of watches and clocks and is 
equipped to do all kinds of repairs. Hawaiian souvenir jewelry, 
such as spoons, enamel goods, etc., is a specialty, and his selec¬ 
tion is varied in kind and price. 




96 


The Island of Hawaii 


The E. N. Holmes Department Store 

On Waianuenue street, is one of the largest concerns on the 
Island, handling goods of all kinds. It contains extensively 
equipped departments carrying dry goods, gentlemen’s furnishing 
goods, groceries, boots and shoes, etc., where the visitor may find 
a variety to select whatever he, or she, may need. Other de¬ 
partments have large stocks of furniture, crockery and other 
standard goods. The firm has a branch store at Honokaa. 


The Hilo Emporium 

Is considered by the best dressers as authority on good clothes, 
dry goods, hats, shoes and furnishings. 

The store has one of the finest, if not THE finest, modern 
store building in the Hawaiian Territory. 

Satisfied customers and modern merchandising methods are 
largely responsible for the recent rapid growth of this business. 
This “home of quality” is an outfitting establishment for the 
whole family. 


Wall, Nichols Co., Ltd. 

Is a branch of the well known Honolulu house of that name, 
and is the oldest and largest stationery house on this Island, 
having been established in 1895. It holds the exclusive agency 
for the Columbia talking machine (is also agent for the Victor 
machines) and for the Underwood and Monarch typewriters. 
It also carries a large stock of sporting goods, musical supplies 
and up-to-date stationery, and a large line of copyrighted postal 
cards. 


P. C. Beamer’s 

Hardware and sporting goods store has grown, with the gen¬ 
eral development, from a very modest bicycle repair shop to a 
well equipped business, carrying a large and particularly well 
selected stock in all lines of hardware, tools, sporting goods, etc., 
being especially well adapted to furnish the visitor with just the 
material he needs for the special requirements of Hawaiian 
hunting and fishing. It specializes in motorcycles and carries on 
a general repair department. 





The Island of Hawaii 


97 


The Sperry Flour Company 

Of San Francisco and Tacoma, has its headquarters for the 
Island of Hawaii with the Hilo branch of R. I. LILLIE, Com¬ 
mission Merchant, whose main place of business is in Honolulu. 
The offices and warehouses of the Hilo branch of the business 
are located on Bridge street, whence the products are sent to 
all parts of the Island. R. I. Lillie handles all the Sperry Flour 
Company products, namely, cereals, flours and feed stuffs. 


The Comfort Shop 

On Bridge street, stands for all that its name implies to any 
one who finds it convenient to enter its doors. All guests are 
welcome and made to feel free to refresh themselves in the rest 
room and .to examine the varied merchandise. This shop makes 
a specialty of Hawaiian mats, fans, koa ware, tapas, pictures, etc. 
Here too, you will find Madeira work, Japanese merchandise, 
hand-made laces, etc., in great variety. Phone 251. 


E. H. Moses 

In 1901 the first Singer Sewing Machine Store was established 
in Hilo and later purchased by Mr. E. H. Moses. As the needs 
of the public became better understood, several lines were added. 
A constant watchfulness of the wants of the community has de¬ 
veloped the business to its present standing as “Hilo’s Leading 
Stationery Store” with a full line of sewing machines, stationery, 
musical instruments, souvenir postal cards, curios, office supplies, 
and Butterick patterns. 


The Hilo Furniture Store 

And Undertaking Parlors, founded in 1892, is one of the most 
firmly established concerns in Hilo. It has done business on the 
same stand, on Front street, for over a score of years. The 
store carries a very extensive stock of honest furniture, suitable 
to various needs, which is imported direct from the best mainland 
factories, filling to their utmost capacities three stores over two 
hundred feet deep and with extensive galleries. Also undertak¬ 
ing goods, 





APR 28 1913 


98 The Island of Hawaii 

The Hilo Drug Co. 

Carries one of the largest and best assorted stocks in the 
Islands, including drugs, hospital and surgical supplies, fancy im¬ 
ported toilet articles, perfumes, candy, cigars, tobaccos, etc. It 
has an optical and a kodak department (exclusive Eastman 
agency) doing amateur and professional developing and printing 
quickly and well. Its soda fountain, fine selection of Island 
views, souvenir post cards and curios, and its position have made 
it the natural tourist trade center. i 



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